Deep within the Kildare countryside, diners won’t stumble across Alumni Kitchen Table & Rooms by chance. Secreted behind large gates and deep hedging on a country road, Alumni is a new self-styled destination restaurant, serving just eight guests two nights a week around a communal dining table in the kitchen of a substantial family home.
Far from being a down-home, rustic affair, this is the ambitious plan of chef Philip Mahon and his wife Kathy, who moved here eight years ago from Dublin. Carefully renovating their home to create a purpose-built restaurant with rooms, the industrious couple are delivering the kind of headline-grabbing experience that Philip is used to cooking up at Restaurant Gordon Ramsay and Pétrus in London. Having undertaken stages at Per Se, Alinea and The French Laundry in the US, he was also part of Dylan McGrath’s team at Mint.
Drawing on this pedigree and an innate attention to detail, Philip is wowing guests with an immersive culinary experience – single-handedly cooking a superb 15-course tasting menu that’s seasonal, indulgent and intrinsically Irish. Eschewing the formalities of a classic diningroom, white linen tablecloths and formal service have been jettisoned in favour of the sleekest contemporary design, with craft touches, eclectic music (Groove Armada and Chemical Brothers, perhaps) and a seat in this innovative one-man kitchen.
Upon check-in, you’ll be shown by Kathy to one of the four design-led ensuite guest bedrooms before a tray of hot fluffy madeleines fresh from the oven arrives at your door. Guests don’t have to book accommodation but, given the location, it’s expected that most out-of-county visitors will. With brass beds, crisp white linen, sleek bathrooms, fun art prints and Irish Pestle & Mortar toiletries, every lovely detail has been carefully considered.
Take a seat in one of two stylish sitting rooms downstairs before dinner, or sip an aperitif in the peaceful garden watching the family dogs play or admiring the burgeoning raised beds. Philip grows everything he can here, from carrots, peas and fennel to greyhound cabbage, sprouting broccoli, beetroot, radishes, rhubarb and a host of herbs.
Dinner is a communal affair in the purpose-built space, with eight guests seated together around the generous bespoke dining table metres from Philip’s work space. Comfy velvet chairs, a woodburning stove, plenty of natural light and candles set the tone for a fun and relaxing evening. A large island and handsome Le Cornue stove take centre stage and guests are welcome to come and chat or watch him in action. Prepare to be seated with like-minded food lovers as you all settle in to enjoy Philip preparing, serving and explaining each dish and answering any questions you may have. With warm and relaxed service by Kathy, whose former career as a nurse shines through in her front of house role, this feels like a fun dinner party with the finest of food.
The 15-course menu begins with exceptional snacks, including poached lobster, smoked Goatsbridge Trout croustade and brioche with summer truffle. First up, though, is Philip’s signature potato, onion and caviar, a delicious pressed cube of paper-thin layers of Maris Piper cooked sous vide in butter for two hours, then served with a dab of spring onion emulsion and Crystal caviar. Deluxe in every way, it’s the perfect mouthful, delicate and vibrant, declaring the intent and skill of what’s to come.
Tangy homemade sourdough with Cuinneog butter, starts the main event, with another signature dish of Cockles and Mussels. A squid ink latticed tuile, featuring Alumni’s hexagonal motif, sits atop a bowl of pristine cockles and mussels that have been steamed in white wine. The addition of double cream from The Village Dairy, confit shallots, crushed garlic, wild garlic oil and clams make this as perfect a plate of shellfish as you could hope for, salty, succulent and light. Partly inspired by Philip and Cathy’s first date, where they met at the Molly Malone statue, diners can expect this accomplished dish to be a regular on Alumni’s menu.
The summer menu’s main course features free-range duck two-ways. From neighbouring Feighcullen Farm, whole roasted birds are left to rest on the dining table on beds of hay. Drawing inspiration from Gareth Ward of Welsh restaurant Ynyshir, first up is taco, confit, hoisin and cucumber, a fried black sesame and honey tostado topped with luscious shredded duck confit, spiky hoisin, sharp spring onions and cucumber. While you tuck in, Philip plates the succulent pink duck breast with sour Meribel plums, hoi sin, slivers of garden radish and cashew.
The cheese course is a delightful twist, a deconstructed riff on a tart tatin, featuring layers of featherlight flaky brick pastry filled with soft quince, tangy onion relish, a rich béchamel and Hegarty’s smoked cheddar, which is cleverly frozen and grated over the top. Served in a cloud of applewood smoke, it raises cheese courses to a new level.
Summery desserts of kirsch-spiked cherries with mascarpone and sweet strawberries with elderflower and white Valrhona Ivorie chocolate are delicate and delicious. Served with an exceptional cup of filtered Indonesian coffee from local PS Coffee Roasters and a single petit fours filled with rich Achill island sea salted-caramel, they round off a meal that’s brilliant in its scope and skill.
That sight and touch are as important as smell and taste is evident in the attention to detail at Alumni. Smart shelving holds tableware and vessels in organic shapes, commissioned from ceramicist Cara Janelle, whose beautiful work Philip first spotted in Alinea. Her delicate spoons are wrapped with Newbridge Silverware in a custom leather cutlery roll by De Bruir Studio in Kildare; styled on a chef’s knife roll, one is presented to each guest at the start of dinner service. A selection of 20 individual handmade ceramics will be used to plate the tasting menu for each diner, with navy linen napkins, individual handmade wooden tweezers from Hewn in Clare and ceramic water tumblers celebrating craftsmanship in all its forms.
With relaxed service by Kathy, this has all the optics of a fun dinner party in a very stylish house with the finest of food by a seriously talented chef.
Pre- and post-dinner drinks are available to order, and complimentary water, tea and coffee are included in the experience. An optional wine pairing of €125 a head includes eight servings, with two Bollinger Champagnes, a Roisin Curley Burgundy and Killahora Orchards naturally sparkling perry working well with different courses. With an eye on supporting Irish wine geese, Philip and Kathy, who has retrained as sommelier, plan to draw on Ireland’s historic wine connections, as well as leaning towards organic and biodynamic choices.
Breakfast is served between 9 and 10 the next day at the big table, where guests are greeted with fresh fruit salad, Glenilen yoghurts and the offer of eggs and a full Irish breakfast cooked to order by Philip. The delicious bread is on offer too, with fresh pastries the only things that he hasn’t made from scratch.
Alumni is an impressive undertaking, with delicious cooking, a wonderful setting and two people who have put their heart and soul into creating a really special and exciting culinary experience.
Tables are released every three months, with the menu changing to reflect the seasons.
