When Santander-born chef Luis Martin took over The Old Couch Café in the centre of Waterford in 2023, it was a quirky little restaurant with a big reputation for doing things differently - but always with finesse. It was a good match for a chef who brought experience in some outstanding fine dining restaurants and he quickly made a mark with his refined, innovative tasting menus and respect for local produce. But relaunching as Mara in 2024 brought a release from the restaurant's history and, renamed Mara, it has since been free to take on a life of its own. All the same principles apply - especially Luis Martin's passion for making sustainability the foundation for everything that goes on here, in a kitchen where everything revolves around using local produce in season. Given his background, there's an international edge to Chef Martin's style, but iit marries wonderfully with local produce, including foraged ingredients - and the restaurant now partners with the much-lauded Barefoot Farm in nearby Dunhill who provide a direct supply of organically grown salads and other items.
It's a very small restaurant and retains the quirky ambience of old, adding a special intimacy to an already exceptional contemporary dining experience which proudly expresses its traditional and regional roots in - as they say themselves - "Signature dishes such as cod buñuelo, ajo blanco, and the now?famed cep tiramisu showcase Spanish roots while celebrating Irish coastal and seasonal flavours".
While promising something very special, Luis Martin's menus (which are posted online) are not overlong, or flashy - or overpriced. There's no denying the ambition, but the service is warm and there's a sense that the guest experience will always be valued ahead of professional recognition. As in many other leading restaurants now, waste reduction is a pressing issue at Mara and it could be argued that offering only a tasting menu is the least wasteful way to operate. But also offering the choice of an à la carte, as Mara does, is a courtesy to the diner and very welcome. Not every diner will want a multi-course dinner, no matter how special it may be, and many will think the tasting menu expensive although - at €100, which is a lot less than many other comparable tasting menus - it is good value.
The wine list (supplied by Wines Direct) includes many natural and biodynamic choices and they are well matched to the food in adventurousness and pricing - and, while online booking only may seem a little distant, one here it is warm and friendly and the service is always a highlight.
All round a place well worth investigating when planning a trip to Waterford.
