Georgina Campbell
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While renowned as a food-lovers' destination - and there is certainly no shortage of outstanding places to eat and to shop for food in this charming town - there is always room for more excellence and Liz and Brendan Byrne's new townhouse and restaurant, Lagom, freshened up the repertoire in style when it opened in early August 2021.
Undaunted by the pandemic this energetic couple had already established KBM Barbecue, around the corner at Market Square, when this cool smart-casual restaurant with rooms opened its doors. The ethos is in the name - originating from Sweden and Norway, the word Lagom (pronounced law-gum) means 'just the right amount' or 'in moderation' - and this clever concept can be seen everywhere throughout the experience, from the understated scandi-elegance of the decor and the simple table settings (lifted by a beautiful linen napkin), to Brendan's carefully crafted menus - which are also priced 'just right' at a very affordable €46, including excellent coffee from Killarney Coffee Roasters and with no supplements.
You'll know you're onto a winner as soon as you taste the wonderful breads -- crusty sourdough and a delicious stout and white soda bun with Ballymac Dairy butter, perhaps - and the skilful simplicity of every dish is sure to please. A pretty crab, dilisk and garden salad, or a mouthwatering ceviche of smoked monkfish might start things off on a high - followed perhaps by crispy-skinned halibut that's been perfectly cooked over coals and served on a contrasting bed of Swiss chard. You don't have to be a fish lover to enjoy eating here and there's plenty to choose from, but the seafood is outstanding and it would be a pity to miss it.
Desserts lean towards the classical - a creamy coffee ice cream with chocolate mousse cake, or a more-ish tarte tatin with homemade vanilla ice cream - all rounded off by very good coffee and chocolates.
The wine list is short but kindly priced, with an interesting selection around the €28 to €35 bracket - and a bottle of House Champagne at a very reasonable €48. In summer the staff are mainly college students, but they are well trained and friendlly, so the experience is relaxed and comfortable.
Accommodation
The ten rooms are Scandinavian in style, but named after Irish trees and plants. Expect the most comfortable king size bed, quality bed linen and towels, coffee and tea making facilities and a good bathroom - with shower only, but a good one, and little shampoo/soap bars handmade locally by Skellig Soaps of Caherciveen. A lovely breakfast too, of course - and available to walk-ins as well as residents.
The Byrnes are a hard working and very hospitable couple who have put their heart and soul into this venture and it will give a lot of pleasure to visitors to Kenmare, including off-season. In December, for example, they'll be offering a dinner, bed & breakfast package and it will be lovely with the Christmas lights on the street.
