The arrival of Toons Bridge Dairy Store on Dublin’s Georges Street feels like a departure for the city. It’s not that there aren’t other great places in town to buy a range of cheese, charcuterie and deli-tastic treats. This emporium feels different, however, primarily because many of those cheeses are made at Toons Bridge Dairy itself.
The family-run West Cork dairy specialises in un-pasteurised buffalo, sheep and cows milk cheeses inspired by classics of the southern Mediterranean: think sweet-flavoured mozzarella for tearing into salads, hay-smoked scamorza for melting into frittata or onto pizzas, and super-fresh handmade burrata, stracchino, stracciatella and ricotta, the last of which turns up in superb house-made cannoli. These treats feature alongside a carefully curated selection of Irish farmhouse cheese with a strong focus on raw milk cheeses, such as bright St Tola, earthy Corleggy, sweet Coolea and tangy Hegartys (whose recently introduced smoked cheddar is a revelation). And then there is the range of charcuterie, which feels like someone couldn’t decide which traditional delights from Tuscany, Sicily and Galicia they loved the most and figured, what the hell, let’s stock it all, from mature acorn-fed Iberico and to oozing nduja.
The Dublin shop might be new but the pair behind it both have serious form. Toby Simmonds and his wife Jenny Rose had made a name for their Real Olive Company long before Toons Bridge Dairy was born, selling the broadest and best quality range of imported olives Ireland had seen back in the 1990s alongside excellent Mediterranean deli products, initially from their English Market stall but becoming stalwarts at various farmers markets as they opened across the country. Jenny Rose’s sister Vanessa Clarke has run The Good Food Store shops and catering in Dublin for many years, as well as being involved in project managing the food offerings and food theatres at festivals such as Electric Picnic and All Together Now.
When both companies were hit hard in March 2020, with the majority of their businesses closing or disappearing overnight, they conceived a Toons Bridge Dairy pop-up in Vanessa’s space on South Great Georges Street as a temporary solution. The reception was so strong that the decision was made to become permanent, and Dublin’s new Mediterranean inspired deli and food store was born.
The strength of its draw lies in the diversity of its offer. This is somewhere to pop into for the most amazing toasted sandwiches (don’t skip the nduja!) to take back to the desk or to a sunny park just as much as it is a go-to for that antipasti board or to stock up the pantry with oils and vinegars, honeys or anchovies. You can pick up a unique gift, including some gorgeous Moroccan dishes; a cheese board to bring to a dinner; pizza kits to make at home; or just some organic eggs for your breakfast.
All in all, it’s a fine addition to the city and one to watch for sure, as this is a team that are never short of creative ideas and the know-how to put them into action.
