The Darina Allen Column

What is it about a school excursion that makes us all revert back to our carefree childhood temperament? asks Darina, as she recounts the fun she and her 12 Week Certificate course students had on their latest fact finding field trip

Just back from another action packed school tour. On every 12 Week Certificate course we take the students on a fact finding field trip to stimulate ideas on how they might use their hard earned cooking skills to earn their living in a fun and creative way. Food is the main driver of the Irish economy at present where there are a myriad of options to add value to basic raw materials.

We started shortly after 8am, everyone was in high spirits. What is it about a school excursion that makes us all revert back to our carefree childhood temperament? First we visited Shanagarry Smokehouse where Bill Casey told us about how he decided to start a smokehouse when he was made redundant in the early 80’s. His smoked salmon is sold not just in the local area but also to several top chefs around the country and occasionally overseas.

Next we visited Philip Dennhardt’s Saturday Pizza factory ingeniously converted from a disused shipping container. An inspirational project which made many students realise that by thinking creatively one can get into business and comply with the regulations without huge overheads.

Then we all piled into the bus and headed for Mahon Point Farmers Market. It was already buzzing when we arrived at 10 o’ clock, 50 plus stalls each manned by a super creative food producer, all entrepreneurs who think outside the box to identify an opportunity.

Annie Murphy’s chickens were roasting to perfection on a spit, beside her Simon Mould was turning out irresistible pizza. As ever the O’Driscoll brothers from West Cork had a long queue for their freshly caught West Cork fish. Maurice Gilbert from Ballyhoura was doling out tastes of his apple juice combos. Close by Marcus Hodder tells me his new salted caramel affrogato ice cream is proving to be a big hit.

Silvia and Olga from La Cocina have an irresistible display of Spanish treats, the students in particular love the custard tarts and want to know if I know the secret. Chocolate Cake Pops, lollipops, goat’s milk, raw food, home baking, cured meats, free range pork, organic fruit and vegetables...

Now, since my last visit Rachel McCormack is making a variety of beef and chicken broths, Pho and pad thai that’s really causing a stir. This market continues to surprise and delight and the originals like Arbutus breads are still innovative and tempt us with their new creations.

Then it was on to Fermoy Cheese where Frank and Gudrun Shinnick and their team of international apprentices make a whole range of delectable farmhouse cheeses from the milk of their Friesian herd.

After a picnic and cheese tasting, we headed to visit Willie Drohan, who produces Comeragh Mountain lamb on his farm not far from the spectacular Mahon Falls. He told us the story of how he and several neighbouring farmers rear this distinctive lamb now much sought after by the top chefs. They lamb graze on deer grass, wild sorrel, tormentil and other wild herbs on the commonage.

Next destination was Nude Food in Dungarvan. Here we were met by Louise Clark and Lucy Whelan. Louise led us through the restaurant into her garden behind where broad beans, courgettes and a myriad of fresh herbs were flourishing. Louise is a charismatic speaker who shared her story with us all.

Our last stop of a brilliantly stimulating and enjoyable day was Dungarvan Brewery. Claire Dalton and Cormac O Dwyer showed us around explained and simplified the brewing process, the ingredients needed and the bottling system. His sister, wife of Tom Dalton the other brewer in the business, organised a tasting of the Dungarvan beers, all with local names, Helvick Gold Blond ale, Copper Coast, Mine Head, and I particularly enjoyed the Black Rock stout. Traditional bottled conditioned beers are the USP of the Dungarvan brewing company which gives the craft beer a unique flavour. Dungarvan Brewery can be contacted on 058 24000

RECIPES:

Fish in Beer Batter with Chips and Tartare Sauce

Fish and chips became famous because they can be utterly delicious. The fish needs to be spanking fresh, the batter crisp, the potatoes a good variety and most importantly the oil needs to be good quality. In Spain and Greece olive oil is frequently used, but sunflower or arachide can be excellent also.

Serves 8

8 very fresh fillets of Irish cod, haddock, plaice, or lemon sole
Beer Batter
250g (9oz) self-raising flour
good pinch of salt
110ml (4fl oz) beer
175-225ml (6 - 8fl ozs) cold water.

Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and gradually whisk in the beer and water.

Chips: 8-16 well-scrubbed unpeeled potatoes
Garnish: 1 lemon
Accompaniment: Tartare Sauce (see recipe)

First make the batter. Sieve the flour and salt into a bowl. Make a well in the centre and gradually whisk in the beer and water.

Cut the potatoes into chips (5mm/1/4 inch approximately – frites size), basically any size you fancy (remember the bigger they are the longer they take to cook. Jumbo’s need to be blanched at 160°C/320°F first and finished at 190°C/375°F).

Heat the oil in the deep-fryer to 180°C/350°F, add in the chips. Make sure they are absolutely dry (don't cook too many together). Cook for a few minutes until they are just soft, drain.

Dip the fish fillets in batter, allow excess to drip off, lower gently into the oil, shaking the basket at the same time. Cook until crisp and golden, drain on kitchen paper.

Increase the heat to 190°C/375°F. Put the chips back in and cook for a minute or two until really crisp. Drain on kitchen paper, sprinkle with salt.

Serve the fish and chips immediately, either on a plate or in a cornet of newsprint. Serve with Tartare Sauce.

Tartare Sauce

A classic Tartare Sauce, great with deep-fried fish, shellfish or fish cakes.

Serves 8-10

2 hardboiled egg yolks
2 raw egg yolks, preferably free range
1/4 teaspoon Dijon mustard
1 tablespoon white wine vinegar
300ml (10fl oz) of sunflower or arachide oil plus 50ml (2fl oz) olive oil
1 teaspoon chopped capers
1 teaspoon chopped gherkins
2 teaspoons chopped chives or 2 teaspoons chopped spring onions (scallions)
2 teaspoons chopped parsley
chopped white of the 2 hardboiled eggs
salt and freshly ground pepper

Sieve the hardboiled egg yolks into a bowl, add the raw egg yolks, mustard and 1 tablespoon of wine vinegar. Mix well and whisk in the oil drop by drop, increasing the volume as the mixture thickens. When all the oil has been absorbed, add the other ingredients - capers, gherkins, chives or spring onions and parsley. Then roughly chop the hardboiled egg white and fold in gently, season with salt and freshly ground pepper and add a little more vinegar or a squeeze of lemon juice if necessary.

Ballyhoura Apple and Custard Tart

This tart is delicious made with Ballyhoura Red of Gold apples. Pears, gooseberries, apricots, rhubarb and plums are also good and the custard could be flavoured with a little cinnamon instead of vanilla if you want to ring the changes.

Serves 10-12

Pastry

225g (8oz) plain flour
pinch of salt
175g (6oz) butter
1 dessertspoons icing sugar – where does the icing sugar go into the recipe?
a little beaten egg or egg yolk and water to bind

Filling

2-3 golden delicious apples
300ml (10fl oz) cream
2 large or 3 small eggs
2 tablespoons castor sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
4-6 tablespoons apricot glaze (see recipe)

1 x 12 inch (30.5cm) tart tin or 2 x 7 inch (18cm) tart tins

First make the shortcrust pastry. Sieve the flour, salt and icing sugar into a large bowl. Cut the butter into cubes, toss in the flour and then rub in with your fingertips. Keep everything as cool as possible; if the fat is allowed to melt, the finished pastry may be tough. When the mixture looks like coarse breadcrumbs, stop.

Whisk the egg or egg yolk and add some water. Using a fork to stir, add just enough liquid to bring the pastry together, then discard the fork and collect it into a ball with your hands, this way you can judge more accurately if you need a few more drops of liquid. Although rather damp pastry is easier to handle and roll out, the resulting crust can be tough and may well shrink out of shape as the water evaporates in the oven. The drier and more difficult-to-handle pastry will give a crisper, shorter crust.

Flatten into a round, cover the pastry with clingfilm and leave to rest in the fridge for 1 hour. This will make the pastry much less elastic and easier to roll.

Line a tart tin (or tins), with a removable base and chill for 10 minutes. Line with paper and fill with dried beans and bake blind in a moderate oven 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4 for 15-20 minutes. Remove the paper and beans, paint the tart with a little egg wash and return to the oven for 3 or 4 minutes. Allow to cool, then paint the base with apricot glaze.

Peel the apples, quarter, core and cut into even slices about one-eight inch thick. Arrange one at a time as you slice to form a circle inside the tart, the slices should slightly overlap on the inside, fill the centre likewise. Whisk the eggs well, with the sugar and vanilla extract, add the cream. Strain this mixture over the apples and bake at 180°C/350°F/Gas Mark 4, for 35 minutes.

When the custard is set and the apples are fully cooked, brush generously with apricot glaze and serve warm with a bowl of whipped cream. [Note: The apricot glaze here is essential for flavour not just for appearance.]

Apricot Glaze

350g (12 oz) apricot jam
juice of 1/4 lemon
2 tablespoons water.
Makes 300ml (10fl oz) approximately
In a small stainless steel saucepan, melt the apricot jam with 1 - 2 tablespoons of juice or water. Push the hot jam through a nylon sieve and store in a sterilized airtight jar.
Melt and stir the glaze before use of necessary.

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The cake making craze continues unabated. If you are really into spectacular results Decobake has 5 shops around Ireland. They also have a wonderful website with a good delivery service. All you need for cake baking and decorating from edible gels and paste, dust and glitter, sugar craft, novelty cake tins and much much more….
Check out the website www.decobake.com

Shanagarry OOOBY little summer market has started again. Every Sunday morning the group sell their seasonal produce, preserves and home baking on the wall outside Shanagarry Church. A brilliant idea that could be replicated throughout the country. Tel Mary Griffin on 0876175985 or email oldroadpainter@msn.com for the details.

On Wednesday July 15th at the Ballymaloe Cookery School 9.30am-2pm Shermin Mustafa’s half-day Sushi made Simple course takes the mystery… and stress… out of making sushi, Shermin will start by explaining the ingredients, basic equipment and techniques required, giving you the confidence to serve it to guests at home or in a restaurant. During this course she will show you how to make at least eight different types of sushi as well as sashimi. Students will have the opportunity to taste all the dishes prepared during the demonstration.

Phone 021 4646785 or www.cookingisfun.ie for more information.
 

'30 Years at Ballymaloe' - Bord Gáis Avonmore Cookbook of the Year 2013

Good Food Ireland Cookery School of the Year 2012/2013

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Once again, the Ballymaloe Cookery School in East Cork has a great programme of cookery courses for all interests and abilities running throughout 2015. Ranging from a relaxing visit to sit in on an afternoon cookery demonstration to a week long ‘Intensive Introductory Course’.

Sitting in the middle of a 100 acre organic farm the Ballymaloe Cookery School provides its students not only with a life skill learnt under the expert tutelage of their very capable teachers but also a place to relax and unwind from the stresses and strains of normal everyday life. The cottage accommodation available onsite for residential courses consists of a collection of delightful converted outbuildings which have been transformed over the years by the Allens, and other accommodation is available locally for the short courses.

www.cookingisfun.ie