The Darina Allen Column

The scent of spices is synonymous with Christmas, so what better time for Darina to think back over the changes she has seen in our use of spices over three decades at Ballymaloe Cookery School - and to welcome Arun Kapil’s recently published cookbook, ‘Fresh Spice’.

Have we Irish got a taste for spices or what!! Thirty years ago when I first started the Ballymaloe Cookery School garlic was still considered by many to be daring and exotic. It was ten years before most of us dared to experiment with chilli not to speak of spices other than a few cloves in an apple tart or ginger with rhubarb in jam or gingerbread.

Somehow in the mid 80’s I heard about Madhur Jaffrey and found her BBC Far Eastern Cookery book. I was hooked and longed to learn more about spices so I picked up the courage to telephone her in New York and invite her to teach at the Ballymaloe Cookery School – she agreed. I was beyond thrilled and so my spice odyssey began. Shopping for that first course was challenging. I hadn’t even heard of some of the ingredients- puffed rice, poha, urad dhal, chana dhal...

Finding the finest basmati rice was difficult in itself but what was asafetida, amchur powder...... I had no idea what fenugreek or black cardamom even looked like. With the help of Mr Bell in Cork’s English Market in Cork city, we gathered all the ingredients – Madhur arrived and the magic began.

Even that first cooking course was completely oversubscribed. Madhur introduced us to a myriad of new and exciting flavours and techniques and life has never been quite the same since.

Fast forward 17 years, in 1997, a young Anglo Indian chap called Arun Kapil enrolled on the 12 week Certificate Course at the Ballymaloe Cookery School, he'd been an ace disc jockey in the UK for a number of years but wanted a break for a short spell from the London scene. Shanagarry in East Cork sounded just the ticket...

Spices were part of Arun's DNA, after a time in Ballymaloe House kitchen, he started to experiment with spice blends. Customers at his Farmers Market stall were thrilled to find such a selection of beautiful fresh spices imported directly from Arun's relatives in the Cardamom hills in Kerala.

Demand grew, the top chefs both in Ireland and the UK loved the quality, mail order was added to the equation, Arun fell in love and married Olive, a lovely Irish girl whom he met at Ballymaloe. Lots of TV appearances and now at last the book - Fresh Spice has been published by Pavilion, a collection of vibrant recipes for bringing flavour, depth and colour to home cooking.

Arun has been around spices all his life and he could talk for Ireland and India about all the fascinating aspects of spice production. He urges us all to look on spices in a whole new way, think fresh and whole rather than ground. Buy in small quantities from a shop that has a quick turnover. Invest in a pestle and mortar or and /or an electric spice grinder or coffee grinder to grind to order for each recipe, think of the difference between fresh and dried herbs.... Sage advice that can revolutionise our food, here's a few of the simpler recipes from Fresh Spice to whet your appetite for the vibrant flavours of spice.

Madhur Jaffrey - who, by the way, spoke highly of the quality of Arun's spices when she was over for the Kerrygold Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine in 2013 - has also published a new book Vegetarian Curry Easy.

RECIPES from Arun Kapil’s new cookbook ‘Fresh Spice’ (Pavilion)

NB: There are some extra recipes given in the book for some items in the ingredients lists, eg Arun’s special Garam Masala blend in the Aloo Tikki recipe - which, incidentally, might make an interesting alterative for vegetarians over Christmas, also a refreshing change for everyone after all the traditional festive fare.

Arun’s (Fat Free) Mincemeat

This recipe uses no fat, butter or suet. It just relies on the freshest of flavours. You’ll really notice the difference…it’s perfect for freezing or will keep in a jar in your fridge for at least 4 months.

Don’t just reserve it for Christmas mince pies, spread it thick on toasted brioche, use as a topping for winter warming porridge…enjoy!

Ingredients:

200g eating apples, cored, peeled, diced
100g Muscavado sugar
1 tblsp water
600ml (1 pint) sweet, local cider
1kg (2lbs) mixed dried fruit made up of:
180g Raisins
130g, Currants
220g, Sultanas
90g, Mixed peel
120g, Figs dried, roughly chopped
130g, Apricots, roughly chopped
130g, Prunes, stoned, roughly chopped
400g (1lb) cooking apples, peeled and grated
1 tsp, Green Saffron’s Mixed Spice
1 vanilla pod, split in half, beans scraped out into the mix
½ tsp, freshly ground black pepper
¼ tsp, freshly ground cubeb pepper
Zest of 1 orange
Zest of 1 lemon
50g (2oz) almonds, toasted, roughly chopped (optional)
2 good tblsp, 50g Calvados

How to put it together:

In a large, heavy-bottomed pan add the Muscavado and water, stir to combine and heat until the sugar ‘melts’ and starts to bubble.

Carefully slide the diced apple into the hot, molten sugar being careful not to splash yourself!

Stir with a metal spoon until the apple pieces are evenly coated, then allow to cook until they’ve softened slightly. This will only take a couple of minutes.

Again, being very careful not to cause too much splashing, pour the cider into the pan, stirring all the time you’re pouring. It’ll sizzle and spit….mind the steam….

Next, slide in the dried fruit, grated apple, Mixed Spice blend, vanilla pod and its beans and the black pepper.

Simmer, lid half-on until the fruits have turned slightly pulpy and most of the liquid has evaporated. This should take about 15minutes.

Take off the heat, remove the vanilla pod, allow to cool slightly, then stir in the lemon zest, orange zest, almonds and Calvados.

Aloo Tikki – Potato Fritters with Sizzled Tomatoes

My dad often used to make us fried potato cakes when he got into the kitchen when Mum was out. They’re a staple of any street-food vendor in northern India and a must-have whenever you’re walking around the streets of Old Delhi in winter.

This is my version – simple, effective and totally delicious. If you have a splash guard, then I’d recommend using it here, because the tomato sauce really spits. A bit messy, I grant you, but essential for the finished dish, so don’t be tempted to turn down the heat – but do be careful not to burn it.

makes 8 patties

500g (1lb 2 oz) floury potatoes, such as Maris Piper, peeled
3–4 tbsp sunflower oil
150g (5½oz) onion, diced
30g (1oz) fresh ginger, finely grated
2 green chillies, deseeded and finely chopped (use less if you don’t want it too hot)
3 tsp Garam Masala blend
1 tsp powdered turmeric
2 tsp black mustard seeds
1 tsp sea salt
1 handful mint leaves, torn or chopped
1 small handful coriander leaves, chopped
For the sizzled tomatoes
3 tbsp olive oil, plus a little extra
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
400g (14oz) tin whole plum tomatoes, drained
1 pinch finely ground black pepper
Sea salt

1. Put the potatoes in a saucepan and cover generously with water. Bring to the boil and boil for 20 minutes or until tender. Drain and lightly mash. Set aside.

2. Heat 1tablespoon oil in a heavy-based frying pan or sauté pan over a medium heat. Add the onion and fry gently for 3 minutes, then add the ginger and continue cooking until the onion is soft.

3. Add the chillies, the Garam Masala, turmeric, mustard seeds and salt. Stir and cook for 2 minutes more, then turn off the heat, set aside and allow to cool to tepid.

4. Add the herbs and mashed potato and mix thoroughly. Divide the potato mix into eight mounds, then form them into evenly sized balls.

5. Add a little more oil to the frying pan over a medium heat. When hot, add three or four balls. Gently press them down into flat but chunky patties and cook for about 10 minutes until light brown on each side. Repeat until you’ve cooked all the potato fritters. Serve immediately with

Sizzled Tomatoes:

1. Put a large saucepan over a medium–low heat. Add the olive oil and garlic slices and cook for a few minutes to soften without browning.

2. Add the tomatoes, pepper and salt to taste, then turn up the heat and cook fiercely, stirring to make sure it doesn’t burn.

3. The tomatoes will release all of their juices. When all the thin liquid has evaporated, add a splash more olive oil, adjust the seasoning and serve hot.
 

'30 Years at Ballymaloe' - Bord Gáis Avonmore Cookbook of the Year 2013

Good Food Ireland Cookery School of the Year 2012/2013

Ballymaloe Literary Festival of Food and Wine 15- 17th May 2015

www.litfest.ie

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The Ballymaloe Cookery School in East Cork has a great programme of cookery courses for all interests and abilities running throughout 2014. Ranging from a relaxing visit to sit in on an afternoon cookery demonstration to a week long ‘Intensive Introductory Course’.

Sitting in the middle of a 100 acre organic farm the Ballymaloe Cookery School provides its students not only with a life skill learnt under the expert tutelage of their very capable teachers but also a place to relax and unwind from the stresses and strains of normal everyday life. The cottage accommodation available onsite for residential courses consists of a collection of delightful converted outbuildings which have been transformed over the years by the Allens, and other accommodation is available locally for the short courses.

www.cookingisfun.ie