The Darina Allen Column - Travels In My Kitchen

Like many of us, Darina is missing travelling - and her solution is to 'travel' in her own kitchen…

Doesn't this lockdown seem like an eternity – even the most resilient of us are really struggling to keep our spirits up and remain positive and optimistic for the sake of those around us.

I soooo miss travelling.... I have had to content myself with skimming through photos and little videos on my iPhone, reliving and experiencing heady trips down memory lane.

I miss so many things - the blast of heavy spicy air that greets me as I disembark after a long haul flight to India. Walking out of the airport a riot of colour everywhere, the crazy traffic, honking of horns and the frenzy of cars, tuk tuks, rickshaws, bikes, scooters and cows ambling nonchalantly through the mix .

I miss my trips to London, and silly little things like sitting in the Quiet Zone in the Paddington Express on my way into the city, drawing up my list of restaurants, cafés, Farmers Markets, theatre and exhibitions that I'm hoping to squash into two or three days.

I'm LONGING to sit sipping a glass of wine at a café table on a sidewalk in Paris, Rome or Barcelona watching the glamorous world go by. I'm aching to wander around Union Square Farmers Market in Manhattan and feeling the irresistible buzz of New York under my feet. Or once again experience the craziness of Djemaa el-Fna in Marrakesh after sunset.

Most of all, I MISS THE FOOD... New flavours, new ingredients, the flutter of excitement generated by a new discovery, the comforting feeling of revisiting old haunts... And how I MISS STREET FOOD! Hainanese chicken and rice or a steaming bowl of Laksa from a hawker stand in Singapore. A fatty pork stew from an open air eatery in Myanmar, a glass of frothy turmeric latte, a flaky samosa or pakora from my favourite 'hole in the wall' in Maheswar....A handmade masa harina quesadilla from an indigenous Mayan woman in an exquisitely embroidered blouse on a street stall in the zocala (zocala really stands for central square) in Oaxaca.

I can but dream, travel is still out for virtually all of us at present, and there is no clear end in sight. There is a relentless sameness to most of our days. So many are either Zoomed out working from home, out of work altogether or demented by home schooling. Some of us are crazy busy, others are creeping up and down the walls from boredom – not much in the way of a happy medium. So difficult to make an effort to keep motivated, to resist the lure of the sofa but we CAN'T have that...

Small things are cheering - a clump of snowdrops and crocuses under a tree, a few stalks of rhubarb coming up in the garden - and my personal solution is to 'travel' in my own kitchen. I've been doing just that through favourite recipes from my reconnaissance trips around the world. It helps me to forget the misery and give thanks for how fortunate I've been to have had the opportunity to travel as much as I did.

So, here are some favourite dishes that my happy memories are made of, to cheer us all up until we can travel once more.

Meanwhile keep safe and well - Happy Cooking!

David Tanis' Pakistani Potato Samosas

Samosas are popular snacks in Pakistan, India and elsewhere. The delicious fried parcels are often sold on the street, but the best ones are made at home. You can make the flavourful potato filling in advance if you wish. The highly seasoned potatoes can be served on their own as a side dish. Ajwain seed, a spice with a thyme-like flavour, is available from south Asian groceries or online spice merchants. If you don't have the inclination or you can't spare the time to make the dough, filo pastry could be used though it's not traditional!

Makes 20 small samosas approximately

Dough

300g (10oz) plain white flour
½ teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon ajwain or cumin seeds
50ml (2fl oz) vegetable oil
110ml (4fl oz) cold water
Filling

700 (1½lb) russet potatoes, peeled, in 1-inch cubes
3 medium carrots, chopped, optional
2½ tablespoons vegetable oil, plus about 3 cups more for frying
1 chopped onion, about 1 cup
salt and pepper
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon black mustard seeds
1 teaspoon grated garlic
1 teaspoon grated ginger
2 Serrano chillies, finely chopped
1 teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon garam masala
2½ tablespoons lemon juice
1 cup chopped cilantro, tender stems and leaves
Make the dough: Put flour, salt and ajwain seeds in a medium bowl. Drizzle in oil and work into flour with fingers until mixture looks mealy. Add water gradually, stirring until a soft dough has formed. If dough seems too dry, add a tablespoon of water; if it seems wet, add a tablespoon of flour. Knead for 1 minute and form into a ball. Wrap and set aside for 30 minutes.

Make the filling: Simmer the potatoes and carrots in well-salted water until tender, about 10 to 15 minutes. Drain and set aside to cool. Put 1½ tablespoons oil in a deep, heavy saucepan over medium-high heat. Add onions, season with salt and pepper and cook, stirring, until softened and beginning to brown, 8 to 10 minutes.

Put ¾ tablespoon oil in a very small saucepan over medium heat. When hot, add cumin and mustard seeds. When seeds are fragrant and beginning to pop, stir in garlic, ginger, chillies, turmeric and garam masala. Allow to sizzle for a minute, then add the contents to the onions.

Add reserved potatoes and carrots and stir well to coat. Check seasoning and adjust salt. Remove mixture to a bowl and let cool to room temperature. When cool, add lemon juice and chopped cilantro. Mix well, smashing the potatoes a bit in the process.

Make the samosas: Portion the dough into 20 pieces, each weighing 40g (1½ oz). Form each piece into a ball and place on a large plate. Cover with a damp napkin.

Roll each dough ball into a thin disc about 15cm (6 inches) in diameter, as if rolling out pie dough. Cut each disc exactly in half, leaving 2 pieces with a straight side and a round side. Form each half-disc into a cone by folding it over and pinching the straight sides together. Put 2 1/2 tablespoons filling in the opening on the round side, then pinch closed to make a stuffed triangle. Form the rest of dough balls into samosas.

Cook the samosas: Heat about 5cm (2 inches) of oil in the bottom of wok over medium-high heat. Adjust heat to maintain the oil at 350 degrees. Slip samosas 4 at a time into the hot oil and let fry on one side until golden, a minute or so, then flip and cook other side. Lift from oil and drain on paper towels. Serve samosas hot or at room temperature, accompanied by your favourite chutney.

Moroccan Harira Soup 
In Marrakesh steaming bowls of Haria are ladled into large bowls every evening in Djemaa el-Fna. It is also an important part of the festivities of Ramadan. It's the traditional soup to break the fast. My brother Rory O'Connell shared this particularly delicious version with us and everyone loves it. Serves 6-8

110g (4oz) dried chickpeas, soaked overnight and drained
110g (4oz) Puy lentils
450g (1lb) leg or shoulder of lamb, diced into 7mm (1/3 inch) cubes
175g (6oz) onion, chopped
1 teaspoon turmeric
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon each ground ginger, saffron strands and paprika
salt and freshly ground pepper
50g (2oz) butter
110g (4oz) long grain rice
4 large ripe tomatoes, skinned, seeded and chopped
2 tablespoons chopped fresh coriander
4 tablespoons chopped flat leaf parsley
lemon quarters, to serve

Tip the chickpeas and lentils into a large saucepan. Add the lamb, onion, turmeric, cinnamon, ginger, saffron strands and paprika, then pour in 1.5 litres (2½ pints) water. Season with salt and freshly ground pepper.

Bring to the boil, skimming the froth from the surface as the water begins to bubble, then stir in half the butter. Turn down the heat and simmer the soup, covered, for 1½ - 2 hours until the chickpeas are tender, adding a little more water from time to time as necessary – it can take up to 900ml (1½ pints) more water or stock, it should be soupy in texture.

Towards the end of the cooking time, prepare the rice. Bring 850ml (scant 1½ pints) water to the boil in a saucepan, sprinkle in the rice, the rest of the butter and salt to taste. Cook until the rice is tender. Drain, reserving 3 tablespoons of the liquid.

To Finish: Cook the chopped tomato in the reserved rice cooking water, seasoning it with salt, pepper and sugar. It should take about 5 minutes or until the tomato is "melted". Add this and the drained rice to the pot and simmer for a further 5 minutes to allow the flavours to mix. Correct seasoning with pepper and perhaps a pinch of salt. Add the chopped herbs, stir once or twice and serve accompanied by lemon quarters.

Turmeric Latte 
One serving:

350mls (12floz) whole milk or almond milk
¼ teaspoon ground turmeric
¼ teaspoon ground cinnamon
¼ teaspoon ground ginger
½ teaspoon vanilla extract
sugar or honey to taste
a grind of black pepper

Put all the ingredients in a heavy saucepan and whisk constantly over a gentle heat until it comes to the boil. When hot, pour the frothy latte into a heavy glass and enjoy.

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