Sea Vegetables

“Seaweed has always been an important part of life for Ireland’s coastal communities, for use on the land and in the home,” says Sligo GP and Slow Food member Prannie Rhatigan in her book Irish Seaweed Kitchen (www.prannie.com).

“Today, the shoreline is mysterious to many of us - but it’s as familiar as the back garden to families living along the coast or on islands, who have grown up with the rhythm of the tides and the briney harvest that is revealed every twelve hours.” She describes seaweed as “... a living treasure by the shore, more valuable by far than any golden coins that may lie buried beside it in the sand” and, thanks to her book, many people taking holidays around Ireland’s coastline will enjoy discovering that treasure for themselves. Fifteen varieties of red, brown and green seaweed feature, all with (considerable) health benefits as well as culinary uses. Some may already be familiar - carrageen (carraigín), for example, is still widely used as a setting agent, and dillisk (duileasc) has many current uses. Prannie recommends starting with easy to use seaweeds in simple recipes, and a full list of Irish seaweed suppliers is in her book, also web addresses for buying online.

Seaweeds are easily found in shops and online, and you will see them on menus in the region too – including restaurants on the islands, which also feature produce grown on small holdings and in gardens, wherever shelter can be found.

Irish suppliers of sustainably harvested seaweeds include Shane Forsythe’s Cleggan Seaweed Company (www.clegganseaweed.com), in Co Galway, which produces a range of sea pickles as well smartly packaged dried seaweeds. On the Aran Islands, edible seaweeds are harvested commercially by Mairtin Concannon of the small company Blath na Mara (+353 (0)99 61411), on Inis Mor; various seaweeds - including dillisk (Palmaria palmata), kombu (Laminaria digitata) and carrageen (Chondrus crispus) - are harvested by hand and dried for use as sea vegetables.

At Burtonport, Co. Donegal, Manus McGonagle’s company Quality Sea Veg (www.qualityseaveg.ie) offers a range of hand-harvested & air-dried seaweed products. Manus, who has harvested seaweed on the Donegal coast since he was a child, recently received the highly respected recognition of a 2012 EirGrid/Euro-Toques Food Award – and, at the same ceremony, Euro-Toques also gave a Special Acknowledgement to Dr. Prannie Rhatigan, for her contribution to reviving the culinary use of seaweed in Ireland and a Special Award For Outstanding Contribution to Irish Food to Gerry Galvin; “former chef & restaurant owner, food writer, poet, novelist”, he was a founder of Euro-toques Ireland, along with Myrtle Allen of Ballymaloe House, and previously the organisation’s Commissioner-General (President).

RECIPE: Puy lentils and Alaria with goats’ cheese salad

The combination of oils and spices in the salad dressing given in this recipe from Irish Seaweed Kitchen perfectly complements the robust flavour of goats' cheese, while the Alaria gives the puy lentils a real flavour lift. Puy lentils are ideal for salads because of their unique peppery flavour and the fact they hold their shape during cooking. They are identified by the area of cultivation where they are grown, in the Le Puy region of France.
Take time to really savour the first mouthful.

You might try using a locally produced oil instead of olive oil in this recipe, eg Donegal Rapeseed Oil, which is widely available. GC

Serves 4
Seaweed used: Alaria

225g (8oz) puy lentils
1 red onion chopped finely
olive oil, for frying
1 bay leaf
1/2 tablespoon thyme, destalked and finely chopped
l5cm (6 inch) piece Alaria (about 5g) snipped into 0.5 - 1cm (1/4-1/2 inch) pieces
5ml (1 pint 10fl oz) stock

DRESSING
1 garlic clove, crushed
1 level teaspoon mustard powder
2 tablespoons lemon juice
2 tablespoons walnut oil
3 tablespoons olive oil

85g (3oz) walnuts
1 tablespoon mixed sea vegetables, chopped
1 large handful rocket leaves
115g (4oz) firm white goats' cheese, crumbled

1 Rinse the lentils under cold running water, place in
saucepan, cover with cold water and bring to the
boil. Simmer for 5 minutes. Drain and rinse well, to
remove indigestible starches. Set aside.
2 In a large heavy based saucepan saute the onion in olive oil over moderate heat until softened.
3 Add the par-cooked lentils, bay leaf, thyme and Alaria and stir briefly.
4 Pour in the stock, cover and simmer for 40 minutes until cooked. Drain any remaining liquid and keep warm.

To prepare dressing and assemble the salad
1 In a large bowl combine the garlic, mustard, lemon juice and oils. Toss the hot lentils in the dressing.
2 Add half of the walnuts, half of the sea vegetables and the rocket, and toss well.
3 Sprinkle cheese over the top and toss again. Scatter the remaining mixed sea vegetables and
walnuts over the salad. Serve warm.

COOK'S TIP
For an extra vegetable boost add more lightly dressed salad leaves and mop up the salad dressing in some crusty bread.