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Rachel Gaffney’s Letter From Texas

Last autumn, the famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas went to see the new 5-star overlooking Royal Portrush, venue of The 153rd Open in 2025

Dunluce Castle perches precariously over the jagged cliffs of County Antrim and, on a clear day, one can look over the North Channel at its neighbour, Scotland. The castle has a varied and storied past. Built by the MacDonnells, who arrived from Scotland in the 1550s, it still clings to the cliff edge as if by sheer will and determination. Four centuries later and it still attracts thousands of people from all over the world.
And now, less than two miles away, something new has been under construction along the very same coastline, namely Dunluce Lodge at Portrush. Like Dunluce Castle, this new five-star resort has also been built by people from across the water. Dunluce Lodge represents the dream of two Texans, Jonathan Harper and Robert Covington.
A dear friend of mine, Maebeth Fenton Martin MBE, drew my attention to this new property over two years ago. Knowing, I am always on the lookout for special properties for my clients, she told me to keep a close eye on this part of the Antrim coastline. And so, in late August, knowing this property was but six months away from its grand opening, I decided to spend three nights in Portrush and Ballycastle.
Because the property was still under construction, Maebeth’s long time friend, Wilma Erskine OBE, suggested we both stay at a local guesthouse, Craignamara which overlooks the Portrush Peninsula. I would be remiss if I did not stop for a moment and pay homage to these wonderful ladies. Wilma Erskine was awarded an OBE (Officer of the Order of The British Empire) for services to tourism and golf and is now the brand Ambassador for Dunluce Lodge and Maebeth Fenton Martin (former owner of Ardtara Country House in neighbouring County Londonderry), was awarded an MBE (Member of The Order of The British Empire) from Queen Elizabeth II in 1998 for her services in the US for tourism in Northern Ireland. To say I was in capable hands would be an understatement.
The guesthouse was simply beautiful. Quiet, beautifully decorated and one cannot help but notice the nod to golf as you walk around the house. Golf hats hung on the staircase from golf clubs around the world, left by guests who wanted to leave their mark. Our hosts, Rod and Kerry Leitch, are also members of Royal Portrush Golf Club. I listened to their stories about the area, and eagerly took note of shop, tourist and restaurant recommendations.
After a delicious breakfast, we all set off in convoy, eager to see what lay ahead.
Dunluce Lodge looks out over the 4th fairway at Royal Portrush. I stood and watched as construction workers were putting the finishing touches to what will be ‘The Largest Putting Green’ in Ireland. This will be for the guests staying at the resort.
I looked out past this green, over the fairway and past the sand dunes, where nature and golf converged in perfect harmony. My party had gone on ahead to look inside, so I quickly ran to catch up, squelching my way through the muddy site. As soon as we walked through the front door, I noticed this would indeed be somewhere different and somewhere special. For here, there would be no formal check in/reception desk that would be typical in hotels but instead a welcoming alcove, beneath the staircase offering the traveller a drink, this gesture, a quiet invitation to pause and unwind.
Set around a courtyard, Dunluce Lodge offers 35 luxurious suites, ranging in size from 258-505 sq ft. Each room accommodates up to 2 people. For larger groups, The Stookan - the name inspired by a nearby rock formation at the Giant’s Causeway – is ideal. Featuring a fireside lounge, stylish furnishings, captivating views and every amenity for your ultimate home away from home comfort, it offers eight suites which are perfect for exclusive use.
I could not help but notice, as we walked the corridors some workers putting the finishing touches on the Dry Room - a much needed facility for those planning to play golf in Ireland! The Vault, as the name would suggest, is located in the basement and will offer a unique and intimate experience for connoisseurs of fine spirits and wines. Their extensive collection boasts an impressive array of wines from around the globe and premium whiskeys from Ireland and beyond. As people chatted among themselves, I wandered over to a worker who I noticed was working very carefully with tree bark. I asked what he was doing with it. He was a local man. He told me the owners wanted to make sure they incorporated as many local and national touches as possible. And indeed, in my opinion, panelling the walls of The Vault with old Irish oak was certainly a nod to our heritage.
Back upstairs, we all meandered through the bedrooms. I stood alone in a bathroom. I wanted to feel what it would be like to stay here. I’m a huge bath fan. People think we should only have showers nowadays, so I am so grateful when properties do not forget those of us who like to luxuriate and unwind in a bath. Looking out the window, the course winds through a landscape carved and shaped by the elements. My reverie was interrupted by the calling of my name.
We filed past electricians, plasterers and painters. From the bar, one can walk outside to the patio and it is here that I imagine guests will make their way, like bees to a honey pot. For it is here, looking out on this particular fairway, that captures the very essence of links golf.
I walked outside, the air brisk and tinged with the salty scent of the Atlantic Ocean and overhead I heard the sound of seagulls. This course, with its long history, will be the home of The Open 2025. For the golfer, it offers a challenge, not simply from its layout, but from the elements.
When Dunluce Lodge opens its doors this February, it will also offer a wellness spa with four treatment rooms. Whilst this property has been strategically built to offer 5-star accommodation for the avid golfer, it is a property for anyone who wants to explore this coastline. I stayed in the area for three days and, during this time, I also drove 45 minutes inland to Seamus Heaney’s Homeplace.
It had not been the best summer, weather wise, but on checking the forecast for my last day, it promised a clear sky and sunshine, and so, without hesitation, I booked my ferry ticket from Ballycastle, a mere half hour drive away, to Rathlin Island. And what a day I enjoyed. When researching areas I do of course, like to spend some time with people, but I spend most of my time alone. For when I am alone, people and places reveal themselves to me in the most unexpected ways. As The Spirit Of Rathlin ferry pulled away from the Antrim coastline, the dramatic cliffs began to recede into the distance. I watched as the soft white foam was left behind by the ferry, hearing the constant and rhythmic rush of waves against the hull of the boat and thinking about Dunluce Castle, once built by people from across the water and still perching over the cliffs. And now Dunluce Lodge, also built by people from across the water is set to open its doors to welcome thousands more people from around the world to discover and embrace this magical land.