Rachel Gaffney’s Letter From Texas - The Slea Head Drive

The famous foodie who’s flying the tricolour for us in Texas reflects on time spent at home in Ireland last summer – and what it is that keeps people coming back  

This year, I spent 12 weeks visiting, touring and experiencing parts known and unknown in Ireland. Some places have the ability to draw me back repeatedly and The Dingle Peninsula is one such place.

The Slea Head Drive is arguably, one of the most dramatic and truly breathtaking drives in Ireland. This drive is not for the faint of heart. During the summer months, tour buses pass effortlessly along, while tourists who drive themselves, feel like it is a death defying feat! When taking this drive you are advised and urged to travel clockwise, beginning in Dingle, thus avoiding the arduous task of squeezing by the tour buses. The drive is 47km (29 miles) long and begins and ends in Dingle. I returned this summer and over the course of a few days, drove the Slea Head Drive, stopping only at one or two locations each day.

The panoramic views are so stunning, that stopping to take it all in, is a must. The summer days were a little wetter and colder this year, but on this particular day in August, I had sunshine and a blue sky. Leaving the town of Dingle behind, I drove for approximately fifteen minutes to Ventry.

 

Seeing the sign for the ‘Fairy Ringfort’, I pulled in to the little lay-by, parked my car and walked across the narrow road to pay for our tickets. I was with family and it seemed like the perfect spot for my niece and nephew to run around. The Fairy Fort is a mystical and enchanting place, sitting on a gentle rise, with sweeping views of the surrounding lush green fields and hills overlooking the waters of Ventry Bay. The family who own this land charged a nominal fee, I really cannot remember how much it was. The landowner greeted us at his little hut and two goats clambered about us. Sheep wandered by. Donkeys, ponies and alpacas walked to the fence as if on cue, as they knew the recycled butter tubs we were holding were filled with food.
My niece gingerly put out her hand to feed the donkeys and soon noticed the horses were the alpha animals behind this fence. Sheep roamed around this windswept location, clambering over the ancient fort and ancient stones. This fort is one of many ring forts scattered across Ireland, but not all are as accessible as this one. These ring forts have weathered centuries of history and, standing there amidst the sheep, I could not help but feel connected to the past, or at least I thought of the past and wondered what and who had stood here before me. This land held memories and experiences deep beneath the roots and rocks. The folklore surrounding these forts is rich and locals respect the land, believing disturbing such places could bring bad luck and anger the fairies.
As we walked through hedgerows, the feisty goats followed eager to be fed. They were not shy and quite a few exhibited bad manners, nudging and pushing us, urging us to feed them. My niece and nephew were, at times, a little unsure. They went from experiencing great joy and excitement to a healthy trepidation. But, as soon as a new group of people arrived, the goats left, knowing there was a fresh source of food.
I climbed to the top, taking in the ocean in the distance. There’s a sense of magic that lingers in this place. The land has a quiet pull on you, and it’s as if you know it’s a sacred place, a place to be enjoyed and respected.

We drove back towards Dingle and a brightly coloured house caught my eye. It was mustard with cobalt blue window frames. The sign outside said ‘Café Eile’
The sound of the gravel driveway crunched beneath the tyres as I parked the car. After a few hours at the Ring Fort, my sister-in-law and I felt we had both earned a nice latte.
The café is located a few minutes drive from the fort. I chatted with the owners, Jen and her partner Dubhaltach (Dulta is the anglicised version) They told me they had recently moved here with their two year-old son and this was a new business venture for them. They have chosen quite the spot. They call it ‘Bakery Eile’. Eile is the Irish word for other. All of their baked goods are homemade and plant based. It is such a cheery place with offerings such as, Zingy Lemon - Raspberry Cake, Almond & Orange Blondies, Carrot Cake, Chai Lattes, Orange Almond Cinnamon Buns and organic coffee.
Jen and Dulta, started this new venture during the winter of 2023. She began with her plant based cupcakes and from there the offerings grew. Dulta is a trained chef and they opened the café this summer. I was delighted to meet them both when I visited. My youngest niece was not yet walking and Jen immediately recognised the need for a booster seat. She disappeared for a few minutes and came back with some of her son’s toys to keep my niece amused. Outside the front of the café are a few picnic benches and beyond that there is a wild grassy area complete with an ancient standing stone. The kids ran around and met some people from Washington State and Wyoming. We chatted and shared travel recommendations with each other.
This hospitality and friendliness is what keeps people coming back to Ireland. Meeting the real people and spending time with them.
On this day, my sister and law and I did not drive more than 10km along the Slea Head Drive. We experienced and enjoyed so much. This landscape that has been here for centuries before us, this tranquil and wild landscape, this landscape with ever changing light, this landscape that will be around for centuries after us is beckoning you to visit, inviting you to stop and stay a while.

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