Mussels

The most abundant, widespread and versatile of Irish shellfish, the common or blue mussel (Mytilus edulis – or an diúilicín in Irish), is to be seen on virtually every rock, pier and rope in the sea around Ireland.

A double-shelled mollusc with an inky blue-black curved shell, it is a native shellfish and has been eaten in Ireland since ancient times – and, thanks to Molly Malone, is associated with Ireland throughout the world.

Mussels are lazy creatures by nature, attaching themselves in clusters to whatever comes their way with byuss (numerous threads produced by the mussel itself), then they just stay there and filter in the food-rich seawater. Although many methods are used in modern mussel cultivation, the basic principle of growing mussels is simple - give them something to attach themselves to in food-rich water.

They grow wild, in or near estuaries and bays, and use a filter system to feed on plankton, taking in up to 45 litres of seawater a day to nourish themselves. Depending on the type of plankton they feed on, their flesh is white or yellow in tone.

Mussels feature in many seafood festivals around the Irish coast, with the most prominent of these (and the most fun) currently The Connemara Mussel Festival, held since 2006 in Renvyle, Co Galway each May bank holiday and ‘headquartered at Paddy Coyne’s pub’ at Tullycross.

Food writer Máirín úí Chomáin, author of a number of books including Irish Oyster Cuisine, has been a judge at the Connemara Oyster Festival since its inception, and has now written a book inspired by the festival, Irish Mussel Cuisine (€15 from Connemara at Clifden bookshop, Kylemore Abbey, The Twelve Bakery shop in Barna, Avoca shop Letterfrack and Lough Inagh Lodge Hotel; also online from www.connemaramusselfestival.com).

The book is a combination of memoir, practical information (she did spend many years teaching cookery after all) and compilation of Márín’s own favourite mussel recipes and those of local chefs and national contributors, including some of the country’s best known chefs.

It celebrates the fun and community involvement of the festival, the versatility of this beautiful mollusc, and Máirín úí Chomáin’s warm personality and love of the stunning area that she was born and raised in.

This delightful, informative and useful book will certainly encourage cooks to make better use of this plentiful food, and many of us will eat all the better for it.

RECIPE: Spicy mussel cakes

Crab cakes are a favourite dish all over Ireland, so why not something equally delicious with other local seafood, such as mussels? Here John O'Toole, Head Chef at the McEvilly family’s lovely Cashel House Hotel at Cashel, Co. Galway shares a simple but unusual dish that he has created using local mussels.

SERVES 8

Click for recipe