Lemons

The lemon (Citrus × limon) is a small evergreen tree native to Asia - although now widely grown in other areas including Europe and America - and its cheery yellow fruit is one of the most versatile ingredients in the kitchen.

Lemons can also be grown here with care, in pots as they not reliably hardy. Anyone who has ever tasted fresh lemons will want to do so again, so this could be a rewarding challenge for the New Year and much more fun than dieting. The “compact and easy 'La Valette' ” variety was recently recommended in the ever-reliable Daily Telegraph gardening supplement.

The juice, pulp, peel and zest, are all used in a wide range of foods; lemon juice is about 5% to 6% citric acid, which not only gives it a distinctive sour taste but also broadens its range of uses - as, for example, water acidulated with lemon juice prevents the oxidisation (browning) of foods such as apples that have been prepared before cooking.

The high vitamin C content and refreshing acidity of lemon makes it especially welcome in drinks; it’s useful in marinades, both for flavouring and to tenderise meats; in dressings (or on its own, eg the traditional squeeze of juice with fish or pancakes); and in preserves (notably marmalade); as well as simply a pleasing flavouring that lifts any number of sweet and savoury dishes.

Candied lemon peel is an essential ingredient in baking, while preserved (pickled) lemons, which are particularly associated with North African and Indian cuisines, are becoming popular in Europe.

Aside from cooking, lemons - like vinegar - have many household uses; eg as a cleaning agent (notably as a metal cleaner - half a lemon dipped in salt or baking powder/bread soda was traditionally used to shine up copper cookware), stain remover (bleach), disinfectant, deodoriser and even as a natural insecticide.

All round, this little ray of sunshine is indispensable and every home should have one - or more.

RECIPE Lemon chutney

The most useful recipes in chefs’ cookbooks are often the sauces and accompaniments - all those interesting small extras that can lift a simple dish.

This simple lemon chutney from a ‘Dips & Dressings’ chapter in Gary Stafford’s book Lyons Café, The Recipes is a good example: “…perfect served with fish in place of lemon wedges, it’s an essential larder ingredient that can be made with little fuss. Stores well in the fridge and also freezes well. Try freezing in ice cube trays before transferring to zip-lock bags to keep in freezer until needed.”

1 lemon (unwaxed/organic if possible)
1 litre water
250g sugar

Bring the water to the boil, add the sugar and the whole lemon and cover with a wet cloth so it acts as a damp lid over the pan.

Gently simmer for 1 hour. Remove the lemon and blend to a purée in a food processor, adding just a little cooking liquid so that the mixture remains firm.