The “Just Ask!” Restaurant of the Month winner for November is The Fatted Calf, Glasson, Co Westmeath
Feargal O’Donnell and his wife, Fiona, chose well when they took over a pub in the charming almost-waterside village of Glasson, near Athlone – immortalised by the 18th century poet Oliver Goldsmith as the ‘village of the roses’, it’s a name that’s still well-earned today.
The O’Donnells’ informal style, with food that offers a timely combination of gastro-pub and contemporary fine dining in a family-friendly atmosphere, is bang on the nail – and this new venture is already very successful.
A prominent chef who is well known in the area, Feargal is the current Commissioner General for Euro-Toques Ireland, the Irish section of the international association of chefs who are dedicated to safeguarding our culinary heritage.
Euro-Toques members have a declared commitment to seasonal and local foods, so it should come as no surprise to find that Feargal’s enticing, frequently changed, menus not only promise innovative modern Irish food in both the bar and restaurant - but also highlight their suppliers on the menu.
Listed suppliers include some Euro-Toques associate members - such as fine food specialists La Rousse Foods, and Donald Russell of Ballymahon, Co Longford, who supplies naturally dry-aged Irish beef.
Irish pork and puddings come from Michael Horan in Athlone, hand-made sausages from the doyenne of speciality sausage-making, Jane Russell, in Co Kildare – and artisan meats are from James McGeough’s renowned business in Oughterard, County Galway.
Food miles generally are admirably short, with especially interesting suppliers from the immediate locality including the Kelly family’s Moonshine Dairy Farm, near Mullingar; a recent Irish Food Writers’ Guild award winner, it is run on bio-dynamic principles, ie not only organic but also guided by the phases of the moon.
Another very special local artisan is John Rogan, of Rogan’s Real Smoked Fish on Lough Owel; formerly known best for the smoked eel that he used to catch himself, he produces several varieties of smoked fish, including trout, salmon and mackerel - since the ban on eel fishing, he has turned his attention to other products and now also smokes bacon in a range of flavours.
Even in this provenance-conscious kitchen the ubiquitous tiger prawn makes a brief appearance, but its long journey to Glasson is more than offset by the predominantly local ingredients – which, incidentally, include the Waterford Blaa, a speciality bread roll made only in the South-East of Ireland and recently selected for a Euro-Toques Food Award.
Feargal O’Donnell’s menus are a great read – and the cooking lives up to the promise, with tasty fare including delicious (Lissadell) mussels, a proper roast of the day, flavoursome burgers enriched with bone marrow, and confit of suckling pork belly with Jane Russell’s handmade sausages and creamy dauphinoise among the many treats.
As well as good food, informed service and a relaxed ambience, this attractive pub has ample parking, outdoor seating and plenty of space for children to run around – a great family destination. And one where you may not have to ‘Just Ask’, but they’ll be only too delighted to chat about their food and its suppliers if you do.
SAMPLE MENUSDINNER
Bar Snacks
Spiced chicken goujons €3.50
Salt & pepper calamari €3.50
Horan’s black pudding, Guinness treacle bread €3.50
Rogan’s smoky corn-dogs €3.50
Duck rillette and toasted sourdough €3.50
Spicy onion bhaji, lemon mint raita €3.50
Garlic and sweet chilli crab claws €6.50
Starters
Homemade soup and crusty breads €4.25
Smoked cod, leek and mussel chowder €6.00
Caesar salad, with fried spiced chicken, sourdough croutons and aged Parmesan €9.00
McGeough’s black pudding and Glasson mushrooms, in roast marrow bones toasted sourdough €8.50
Aromatic confit of duck, orange, sesame and green bean salad €8.50
½ kilo steamed Lissadell bay mussels, coconut, coriander and lemon grass €8.50
Creamy Clare Island fresh crab and pink grapefruit on toasted foccacia with roast pepper and wild rocket €9.00
Tiger prawn wontons, toasted sesame ginger and sweet chilli €9.50
Mains
Grilled homemade burger with Moonshine farm organic cheese, crispy bacon and toasted Waterford blaa €15.00
Crisp fillets of lemon sole, Paulaner batter, minted peas and tartare sauce €16.00
Ricotta and spinach tortellini, sun dried pepper and butternut squash €14.00
Confit of suckling pork belly, Jane Russell’s hand made sausages, creamy dauphinoise €22.50
Buttermilk fried spiced chicken, wild rocket and piquillo peppers, tarragon aioli €22.00
Carved chump of Irish lamb, vanilla and carrot mousseline, honey rosemary oil €24.00
Pan-fried fillet of sea-bass, chorizo and smoked paprika salsa, parmentier potatoes €22.00
Donald Russell dry aged beef, choice of café de Paris or cracked pepper and thyme jus €25.00
10 oz rib eye / 10 oz sirloin
Seasonal Sides €3.00 each
• Hand-cut Chips • Rocket and aged parmesan
• Crispy onion rings • Dauphinoise potato
• Duck fat roast potatoes • Garlic buttered greens
• Braised red cabbage with apple and raisins
Desserts €6.50 each
Selection of Artisan cheese and crackers €9.00
Some of our suppliers:
Donald Russell – Irish beef, Michael Horan – Irish pork, Jane Russell’s hand-made sausages, Reilly Mushrooms, Fagan Foods, Moonshine farm – organic cheese, John Rogan’s smoked fish and meats, La Rousse foods, Cyril’s happy hens,
Four Leaf Clover – fresh fish, Fresh and Ready veg, James McGeough’s artisan meats
LUNCHRoast of the day €12.50*
Tuesday Roast loin of Horan’s pork
Wednesday Roast Rib of Donald Russel dry aged beef
Thursday Horan’s home cured bacon
Friday Slow roast shoulder of lamb
Saturday Butter roast chicken, chorizo stuffing
*Includes seasonal veg and potatoes
Lunch Menu
Homemade soup and crusty breads €3.95
Smoked cod, leek and mussel chowder €5.00
Toasted Horan’s ham sandwich with Irish cheddar, sun-dried tomato and red onion marmalade €6.50
Caesar salad, with fried spiced chicken, sourdough croutons and aged Parmesan €9.00
Roast of the day on toasted Waterford blaa with today’s soup €9.00
Aromatic confit of duck, orange, sesame and green bean salad €7.00
Goat’s cheese rarebit, toasted foccacia, seasonal salad €7.50
½ kilo steamed Lissadell bay mussels; coconut, coriander and lemon grass €7.00
Rogan’s smoked trout, dill and apple celeriac remoulade €8.50
Irish farmhouse cheese and local meats board, sourdough, homemade relish and salad €9.00
Seared Donald Russell Irish rib-eye steak, café de Paris butter and hand cut chips €15.00
Ricotta and spinach tortellini, sun dried pepper and butternut squash €10.50
Buttermilk fried spiced chicken, wild rocket, tarragon aioli €14.50
Crisp fillets of lemon sole, Paulaner batter, minted peas and tartare sauce €12.50
Grilled homemade burger with Moonshine farm organic cheese, crispy bacon, toasted Waterford blah €13.50
Jane Russell’s hand made pork and Parmesan sausages, pesto tomato mash €12.50
Seasonal Sides €3.00 each
• Hand-cut Chips • Rocket and aged parmesan
• Crispy onion rings • Dauphinoise potato
• Duck fat roast potatoes • Garlic buttered greens
• Braised red cabbage with apple and raisins
Desserts €6.50 each
Selection of Artisan cheese and crackers €9.00
Some of our suppliers:
Donald Russell – Irish beef, Michael Horan – Irish pork, Jane Russell’s hand-made sausages, Reilly Mushrooms, Fagan Foods, Moonshine farm – organic cheese, John Rogan’s smoked fish and meats, La Rousse foods, Cyril’s happy hens,
Four Leaf Clover – fresh fish, Fresh and Ready veg, James McGeough’s artisan meats
Sunday Menu
Homemade soup and crusty breads €3.95
Smoked cod, leek and mussel chowder €5.00
Spicy onion bhaji, lemon mint raita €7.50
Aromatic confit of duck, orange, sesame and green bean salad €8.00
Warm salad of McGeough’s black pudding, new potatoes, crispy poached hen’s egg, honey mustard dressing €8.00
Pan-fried garlic and sweet chilli crab claws €8.50
Hot roast beef sandwich on toasted Waterford blaa, rocket and horseradish €10.00
Baked quiche with Rogan’s apple-wood smoked bacon, Glasson mushrooms, tarragon and sun-dried tomato, €12.00
Steamed Lissadell bay mussels, coconut, coriander and lemon grass
Small €7.50 Large €15.00
BBQ baby bacon ribs, smoky bourbon molasses
Small €7.50 Large €15.00
Creamy risotto with roast butternut squash, sprouting broccoli, smoked almonds and aged Parmesan
Small €7.50 Large €15.00
* Roast rib of Donald Russell Irish beef, pearl onion and rosemary jus €15.00
* Roast loin of Horan’s Irish pork, apricot and cider compote, mustard cream €15.00
* Grilled homemade burger with Moonshine farm organic cheese, crispy bacon and toasted Waterford blaa €15.00
* Crisp fillets of lemon sole, Paulaner batter, minted peas and tartare sauce €15.00
* Tandoori-spiced chicken, toasted foccacia, lime crème fraiche and summer leaves €15.00
* Poached Clare Island organic salmon, Pimms and cucumber salsa, buttered greens €15.00
* All main courses served with potatoes & veg
Seasonal Sides €3.00 each
• Hand-cut Chips • Rocket and aged parmesan
• Crispy onion rings • Dauphinoise potato
• Duck fat roast potatoes • Garlic buttered greens
• Braised red cabbage with apple and raisins
Desserts €6.50 each
Apple tart tatin, with vanilla ice cream and maple syrup
Selection of ice cream, sorbet and fruit salad
Raspberry cream Pavlova with fresh strawberry and popping candy
Baked New York vanilla cheesecake, with spiced cherries and cream
Rhubarb and apple crumble
Some of our suppliers:
Donald Russell – Irish beef, Michael Horan – Irish pork, Jane Russell’s hand-made sausages, Reilly Mushrooms, Fagan Foods, Moonshine farm – organic cheese, John Rogan’s smoked fish and meats, La Rousse foods, Cyril’s happy hens, Four Leaf Clover – fresh fish, Fresh and Ready veg, James McGeough’s artisan meats
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VIEW ALL JUST ASK RESTAURANT OF THE MONTH WINNERS
“
Just Ask!” is a public awareness campaign that aims to encourage consumers when eating out to look for information on where the food (particularly meat) on their plate comes from, and encourages chefs to provide this information on their menus. The programme supports both large and smaller artisan suppliers, encouraging both Irish diners and visitors from abroad to support restaurants that are in turn supporting their suppliers.
Here at Georgina Campbell Guides we have always been avid supporters of the ‘eat local’ concept, and we always enjoy reading menus that have a real sense of place. The dining experience is greatly enriched by knowing that the food on your plate is inspired by the produce and traditions of the area, and sourced nearby – and we would love to see more chefs sharing that precious information with their guests.
If you are a visitor to the area, learning a little about local food and the people who produce it adds a special extra dimension to the visit – and, for residents, it reinforces a natural pride in the good things of their locality and makes a meal all the more enjoyable.
So, we are delighted by the high standard of menus that continue to be submitted for our ' “
Just Ask!” Restaurant of the Month Competition', menus that really speak of the best of Irish foods – and the dedication of both the people who make them, and the chefs who select them to create wonderful dishes with real Irish flavour for our enjoyment.
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