The “Just Ask!” Restaurant of the Month winner for November is O'Connells in Donnybrook, Dublin 4
Although only open in this characterful Donnybrook premises for a year, O'Connells Restaurant has held a unique position on the Dublin dining scene for over a decade. In 1999, Tom O'Connell and his brother Rory (brothers of Darina Allen of Ballymaloe Cookery School) got together to open a new kind of ingredients-led restaurant, at Bewleys Hotel in Ballsbridge.
Large, informal and contemporary, O’Connells of Ballsbridge quickly earned a reputation for giving food provenance absolute priority and, in its later locations – a spell at The D4 Hotel (formerly The Berkeley Court Hotel) on Lansdowne Road, and now in its new life as O’Connells in Donnybrook – that philosophy has underpinned everything that Tom, and the team do.
Changes of location and personnel can make regular diners nervous, so it is a great relief to fans that this new enterprise has settled in well. And, as well as the major decisions, such as choice of meat suppliers, Tom O’Connell, head chef Udo Wittman, and his team take just as much trouble to ensure that the smaller things are right too – breads, for example, are made in-house not just once, but twice daily.
As Tom explains, “Our principles are simple: the very best of Irish food - free-range, organic, wild where possible – is cooked simply to enhance it's natural flavour...” And who could argue with that?
Their producers and suppliers have, as Tom says, “been our difference over the years” and, as ever, the Donnybrook menu is a hymn to Irish produce.
Main suppliers (see below) are listed on the website, and every menu is liberally sprinkled with their products. Starters include ingredients as diverse as the renowned Inch House Black Pudding, from North Tipperary, and Bill Casey's Irish Smoked Salmon from Shanagarry in East Cork, while main courses range from a Gratin of ‘Castletownbere landed Hake’(topped with Gubbeen Cheese also from West Cork), to Char-Grilled Medallions of Free-Range Irish Pork Loin ?(from Crowes Farm in Tipperary).
Certified Hereford Prime Irish Beef is a point of pride and it is pleasing to see that the Char Grilled Rib Eye Steak comes with a note explaining that “Our Beef Steaks will have an amount of natural fat and sinews which add to the flavour of the steak”.
Poultry offerings include the Steele family’s Silver Hill duck from Co Monaghan and – very unusually – there may be a choice of free range / organic chicken from more than one producer (Donal Nash, Newcastlewest, Co Limerick ,and Mary O'Regan, Co Wexford are currently listed), both carved from the trolley.
Aside from their total commitment to sourcing the best possible in-season Irish ingredients, O’Connells has another special claim to fame - for its coeliac friendliness - and it’s probably the best dining choice in Ireland for the growing number of people with gluten intolerance.
Even the famous ‘little pot’ desserts are all gluten free, which is quite an achievement when you look at the traditional favourites listed, including Lil O'Connell's Sherry Trifle, Warm Chocolate Pudding ?Coconut Pannacotta and a fruit tart such as Warm Cullohill Rhubarb Tart served with Soft Brown Sugar & Whipped Cream.
All round O’Connells is one of the most informative restaurants diners are ever likely to visit, and it is greatly to the credit of Tom O’Connell and his team that there is very little need to ‘Just Ask’ when dining here – although there’s no doubt that they’d be delighted to chat about their suppliers or answer any queries if you have them.
SAMPLE MENU
Early Bird Menu – Autumn 2011 all night
From 17.00 till 22.00hrs Tuesday to Saturday | 16.30 till 19.30hrs on Sundays.
Two Course Early Bird Menu Price indicated by each Main Course. Third Course - €3.85 supplement
Early Bird Menu prices only apply when choosing a two /three course menu.
** Produce for sale in the Shopeen.
Starters
Salad of Organic Wicklow Ruby Beetroot
Ardsallagh Goats Cheese (East Cork) | Spiced Walnuts | Olive Oil & Vino Cotto Dressing
(υ) Croquette of Carrot, Apricot & Cashew Nuts | Pickled Organic Beetroot | Minted Natural Yoghurt |
(υ) O’Connells House Salad
Baby Gem | Watercress | Flat Parsley | Shaved Fennel | Shaved Celeriac | Scallions | Avocado | Lemon & Chive Vinaigrette
Poached Pear & Cashel Blue Cheese Salad (Co Tipperary) | Candied Walnuts | Mixed Leaves
Bill Casey’s Shanagarry Smoked Organic Irish Salmon (East Cork) Lemon | Shallot | Capers
North Tipperary Inch House Black Pudding (Nora Egan, Thurles) | Apple Compote | Mustard Sauce
Honey & Soya Roast Duck Salad (Monaghan) Orange | Cashew Nuts
Chicken Liver Mousse Apple Chutney | Grilled Sourdough Bread
A Pot of French Onion Soup (5/7 Minutes for the nice oven melting) with a Gruyère Cheese Croûton
(υ) Mildly Spiced Parsnip Soup | Autumn Herb Cream
Main Courses
(Two Course Early Bird Menu Price indicated by each Main Course)
Pappardelle Pasta with a Confit of Root Vegetables & Irish Wild Rabbit €20.95
O’Connells Smoked Haddock Fish Cakes | Light Curry Sauce (Green Saffron Co Spices) €20.95
(υ) Pot Baked Mediterranean Vegetables Tomato Fondue | Rosemary Potatoes | White Wine Cream Sauce €22.80
(υ) Roast Aubergine | Parmesan Cheese | Butternut Squash | Basil Pesto Dressing €22.80
Pan-fried Irish Lambs Kidneys | Tarragon Mushrooms | Gubbeen Bacon Spring Cabbage €23.75
Irish Dry Aged Bone On Pork Cutlet | Bramley Apple Sauce | Pan Roasting Gravy | Herbed Bread Stuffing €23.75
Gratin of Castletownbere landed Hake | Herbed Breadcrumb Topping | Gruyère Cheese €25.75
Pan-fried Castletownbere landed Fillets of Plaice | Tartare Sauce | Chips €25.75
Wicklow Venison Two Ways – Braised & Grilled Red Cabbage | Juniper Berry Cream Sauce €25.75
Grilled Minute Steak of Certified Irish Hereford Prime Beef* (6oz) €25.75
Char-Grilled Rib Eye Steak of Certified Hereford Prime Irish Beef* (8oz) €27.40
Minute Steak and Rib Eye Steaks served with Crisped Onions | Red Wine, Tarragon & Shallot Butter
(Note – * Our Minute and Rib Eye Steaks will have an amount of natural fat and sinews which add to the flavour of the steak)
Grilled Rump of Irish Spring Lamb (South-East) | Sweet Muscat New Seasoon’s Pumpkin | Braising Jus €27.40
Catalonian Charcoal Oven Roasted Free-Range Irish Chicken €25.75 (Donal Nash, Newcastlewest, Co Limerick)
Catalonian Charcoal Oven Roasted Irish Organic Chicken €28.60 (Mary O’Regan , Co Wexford)
... both carved from the trolley | Thyme Leaf Bread Stuffing | Grandma O’Connell Bread Sauce with Marjoram | Pan-Roasting Gravy | Cranberry Sauce
Char-Grilled Medaillons of Irish Fillet Steak | Green Beans | Peppercorn Sauce €32.20
Côte à l’Os – Char-grilled on the bone Rib Steak of Irish Hereford
Red Wine, Tarragon & Shallot Butter | Crispy Onions | Chips €32.20
and ... new to the menu this evening ...Seared Local Castletownbere Scallops €36.50 (for 2 courses)
Wilted Irish Spinach | White Wine Lemon Cream Sauce
O’Connells Little Pot Desserts & Ice Cream
... gluten-free - your choice of two pots per person
Lil O’Connell Sherry Trifle | Warm Pear & Almond Pudding | Warm Chocolate Pudding | Muscat de Beaumes de Venise Crème Caramel | Lemon Pot
Rossmore Farmhouse Ice Creams , The Stanley Family, Rathdowney, Co Laois -
Vanilla | Chocolate | Blackcurrant | Strawberry | Rum Raisin | Honeycomb & Raspberry Sorbet
or.... non gluten free .... A Slice of Warm Cullohill Plum Tart – Whipped Cream | Soft Brown Sugar
Tea, Coffee, Fresh Mint Infusion €1.50
There is no service charge except for parties of six or more when a 10% charge is made. Distributed equally to all our staff.
Our food Producers/Suppliers:
Beef is Irish Hereford Prime, Co Westmeath
Lamb is from Irish Country Meats, Camolin, Co Wexford
Pork is free-range from T. J. Crowe, Co Tipperary
Fish is from Shellfish de la Mer, Co Cork
Ducks are from The Steele Family in Co Monaghan
Organic Chicken is by Mrs O’Regan in Co Wexford
Nora O’Grady’s, Inch House Black Pudding (Thurles, Co Tipperary)
Bill Casey’s Shanagarry Smoked Organic Irish Salmon
Bacon for our warm salad is Fingal Ferguson’s Smoked Gubbeen Bacon
----------
VIEW ALL JUST ASK RESTAURANT OF THE MONTH WINNERS
“
Just Ask!” is a public awareness campaign that aims to encourage consumers when eating out to look for information on where the food (particularly meat) on their plate comes from, and encourages chefs to provide this information on their menus. The programme supports both large and smaller artisan suppliers, encouraging both Irish diners and visitors from abroad to support restaurants that are in turn supporting their suppliers.
Here at Georgina Campbell Guides we have always been avid supporters of the ‘eat local’ concept, and we always enjoy reading menus that have a real sense of place. The dining experience is greatly enriched by knowing that the food on your plate is inspired by the produce and traditions of the area, and sourced nearby – and we would love to see more chefs sharing that precious information with their guests.
If you are a visitor to the area, learning a little about local food and the people who produce it adds a special extra dimension to the visit – and, for residents, it reinforces a natural pride in the good things of their locality and makes a meal all the more enjoyable.
So, we are delighted by the high standard of menus that continue to be submitted for our ' “
Just Ask!” Restaurant of the Month Competition', menus that really speak of the best of Irish foods – and the dedication of both the people who make them, and the chefs who select them to create wonderful dishes with real Irish flavour for our enjoyment.
There are currently no comments
Leave a comment
Not a member? Register for your free membership now!
Or leave a comment by logging in with: