The “Just Ask!” Restaurant of the Month winner for February is "VM" Restaurant, Viewmount House, Longford, Co Longford
Just outside Longford Town, this beautiful Georgian house dates back to 1740 and was taken on as a labour of love by the current owners, James and Beryl Kearney, in the 1980s. Since then, they have gradually worked on the house and developed its magnificent gardens, and there was always a plan to open a restaurant – a plan that came to fruition in 2008, when Euro-Toques chef Gary O’Hanlon joined the team, and the atmospheric restaurant that they had been developing in the old stables over the previous few years finally opened its doors.
And it was well worth waiting for. The restaurant is a lovely place to visit and Gary O’Hanlon, who is from Ramelton in Co Donegal, is the perfect chef for the job, bringing a contemporary lightness of touch and – most importantly - a great sense of the locality to his classical cooking background.
Reading any menu devised by Gary O’Hanlon draws the guest right into the rich and flavoursome world of local Irish foods, with lip-smackingly tempting name-checked produce laid out for each diner’s delectation from the outset.
Coastal treats like Lissadell mussels, Clare Island salmon and Clogherhead prawns may well feature right upfront among the starters, for example, along with midlands specialities like Thornhill duck and Donald Russell beef; throwing a wide net over the good foods produced by this small country, the names of dishes give an immediate sense of the range of ultra-fresh foods sought out by this dedicated chef.
A Tasting Plate of Irish Pudding and Rare Breed Pork, for example, brings together small scale artisan Irish food production and a highly regarded larger company (Jane Russell black and Clonakilty white pudding, from counties Kildare and Cork respectively) along with rare breed pork - and should you be curious about its origins too, an extensive Suppliers list (see below) will tell you that it comes from Jana Reinhaart, who also produces free range turkey and geese.
Likewise a middle course Taste of the Midlands Salad takes in the products of no less than three excellent nearby producers – Kelly’s organic soft cheese (from the evocatively named Moonshine Dairy Farm near Mullingar), Rogan’s whiskey oak smoked bacon (from Rathowen, Co Westmeath, formerly famous for smoked eel) and O’Halleran’s free range eggs from nearby Keenagh – as well as herbs from their own gardens at Viewmount. A delicious dish, and what a delight the detailed provenance is.
The story unfolds with equal enthusiasm on the early evening menu, and also Sunday lunch – which is a great outing, and winner of our Sunday Lunch of the year award for 2012. And Gary O’Hanlon has a thoroughly grounded attitude to food so, while the cooking and presentation always convey a certain sense of occasion, flavour and texture come first and he clearly respects the healthy appetite required to enjoy it to the full.
The comprehensive information given to guests at “VM” means there is very little need to ‘Just Ask!’ but, as this is a restaurant motivated by the love of Irish food, just go ahead anyway. There’s nothing Gary – or Beryl and her front of house staff - enjoy more than telling visitors all about it.
SAMPLE MENUS + SUPPLIER LIST
Our Suppliers
Viewmount Gardens
Kelly’s Organic Dairy (Moonshine Farm)
Mullingar
Thornhill Duck
Blacklion, Co. Cavan
John Rogan
Organic Smoked Fish/ Whiskey Oak Smoked Bacon
Rathowen
Donegal Rapeseed Oil
Raphoe Donegal
Joe Ledwith
Wild Irish Game
Longford/Mullingar
Wild Irish Game
Co Wicklow
David Tiernan Glebe Brethan Cheese, Dunleer
Kettyle Foods, Fermanagh
Edward Gallagher
Irish Premium Oysters Donegal
O’Halleran’s Free Range Eggs
Kenagh Longford
Shanley’s Fruit & Vegetables
Longford Town
Albatross Seafood’s
Killybegs Donegal
Donald Russell Dry Aged Beef
Ballymahon Longford
BD Foods
Glaslough Monaghan
Jana Reinhaart
Rare Breed Pork, Free Range Geese & Turkey
Kate Mc Kenna Venison, Ballinalee Longford
Piers Gourley Diment
Asian Junction Spice Pastes
Early Bird by VM, January 2012
Starters
Wild Wicklow Pheasant Breast & Confit Leg Risotto
Butternut Squash Puree, Peas, Girolles, Glebe Brethan, Ginger Scallion Oil
Taste of the Midlands Salad
O Halleran’s Free Range Egg, Spinach, Kelly’s Organic Soft Cheese, Rogan’s Whiskey Oak Smoked Bacon, Capers, Viewmount Herbs, Red Onion, Red Wine Vinaigrette, Roast Pear
Anise Orange Cured Thornhill Duck Leg Confit
Honey Roasted Parsnips, Pearl Onion & Puy Lentils
Juniper & Pink Grapefruit Cured C. I. Organic Salmon
Red Onion Dill Sour Cream, Pickled Herb Stalk, Cucumber, Puffed Capers
VM Seasonal Soup of the Day
VM Breads
Main Courses
Spice Rubbed Red Mullet
Black Sesame & Rice Brittle, Sesame Pudding, Sesame Yuzu Vinaigrette Dressed Cress, Shaved Almond
Kettyle Free to Roam Chicken
Potato, Bacon, Apple, Scallion & Herb Stuffing, Pearl Onion Jus
Wild Irish Boar Shoulder Confit
Terrine of Jane Russell’s Black & Clonakility White Pudding, Poached Egg, Jus
Celeriac Lasagne, Glebe Brethan Gratin
Provencal Vegetables, Red Pepper Cream
Dessert from Menu (Cheese €5 Supplement)
Price €35.00
Available Wednesday & Thursday Only 6.30 – 7.30pm
VM DINNER MENU, JANUARY 2012
Starters
Wild Wicklow Pheasant Breast & Confit Leg Risotto
Butternut Squash Puree, Peas, Girolles, Glebe Brethan, Ginger Scallion Oil
Clogherhead Prawns in Kataifi Pastry
Red Onion Compote, Mango Mayonnaise, Salted Rucola
Anise Orange Cured Thornhill Duck Leg Confit
Honey Roasted Parsnip, Pearl Onion & Puy Lentils
Beetroot, “Soil”, St Tola Goats Cheese
Beetroot Sphere, VM Edible Soil, St Tola Organic Goats Cheese & Ricotta, Vanilla Bean Goats Milk Pudding, Micro Cress
Donald Russell 18 Month Air Dried Beef
Cauliflower Panna Cotta, Cumin Crostini Curry Dressed Leaves, Cherry Peppers & Onion
Juniper & Pink Grapefruit Cured C. I. Organic Salmon
Red Onion Dill Sour Cream, Pickled Herb Stalk, Cucumber, Puffed Capers
Middles
Vegetable Soup
Taste of the Midlands Salad
O Halleran’s Free Range Egg, Spinach, Kelly’s Organic Soft Cheese, Rogan’s Whiskey Oak Smoked Bacon, Capers, Viewmount Herbs, Red Onion, Red Wine Vinaigrette, Roast Pear
Blood Orange Jelly
Moonshine Farm Organic Natural Yoghurt
Soup of the Day
Main Courses
Spice Rubbed Red Mullet
Black Sesame & Rice Brittle, Sesame Pudding, Sesame Yuzu Vinaigrette Dressed Cress, Shaved Almond
Kettyle Free to Roam Chicken
Potato, Bacon, Apple, Scallion & Herb Stuffing, Pearl Onion Jus
Thornhill Duck Breast, Vadouvan Rub
Puy Lentils, Curry Oil, Chilli Mayonnaise, Chick Peas
Pan Seared John Dory
Barley & Pistachio Risotto, Carrot Puree, Pistachio Pudding, Carrot Crisp, Caramelised Smoked Pistachio
Celeriac Lasagne, Glebe Brethan Gratin
Provencal Vegetables, Red Pepper Cream
Salt Fried 28 Day Dry Aged Donald Russell Sirloin Steak
Red Onion Mustard Seed Compote, Truffled Crozier Bleu & Kelly’s Organic Soft Cheese
Wild Wicklow Venison Saddle
Candied Yorke’s Swede, Red Wine Celeriac, Valrhona Chocolate Berry Sauce
Milk Fed Veal Loin
Vegetable “Risotto”, Smoked Chestnut Puree, Juniper Pickled Pearl Onion, Garlic Crisp
Price €53.00
Head Chef: Gary O’Hanlon
All our Beef is of Irish Origin
Products Sourced Locally & Organic Where Possible
VM SUNDAY LUNCHStarters
Roast Sweet Potato & Ginger Soup
Pork, Maple & Viewmount Orchard Apple Parcels with Glazed Baby Figs & Candied Granny Smith
Lissadell Mussels in Spiced Provencale with Toasted Garlic Croute
Rogan's Organic Smoked Peppered Mackerel & Smoked Salmon Cakes with Mango Aioli
Kellys Organic Cheese, Tomato & Basil Tartlet with Red Onion Compote, Salted Roquette
Duck Confit Spring Roll with Gingered Zucchini & Cherry Pepper Nage
Main Course
VM Free Range Chicken coated with an Irish Whiskey & Wild Mushroom Sauce.
Escalope of Pork with Egg Plant Parmiggiana & Roquette
Roast Prime Sirloin of Irish Beef Chasseur with Yorkshire Pudding & Horseradish
Roast Stuffed Leg of Irish Lamb, Roast Gravy & Mint Preserve
Seared Red Gurnet with Tomato Basil Risotto, Salsa Verde & Micro Greens
Assiette of Clougherhead Prawns, Artic Char & Natural Smoked Haddock
Wild Mushroom, Baby Spinach & Bell Pepper Polenta Cake with Beetroot, Mushroom & Sherry Ragout
Desserts
Coca- Cola Chocolate Cake with Raspberry Marshmallows & Chocolate Sauce
Glazed Lemon Tart with White Peach Sorbet & Berry Sauce
Vanilla Bean Rice Pudding with Poached Pear, Butterscotch & Ice Cream
Assiette of VM Ice Cream & Sorbet with Tuile
Chocolate Honeycomb Cheesecake with Raspberry Puree
Vanilla Panna Cotta with Scarlet Poached Pear & Syrup
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Tea / coffee
Price €29.00
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VIEW ALL JUST ASK RESTAURANT OF THE MONTH WINNERS
“
Just Ask!” is a public awareness campaign that aims to encourage consumers when eating out to look for information on where the food (particularly meat) on their plate comes from, and encourages chefs to provide this information on their menus. The programme supports both large and smaller artisan suppliers, encouraging both Irish diners and visitors from abroad to support restaurants that are in turn supporting their suppliers.
Here at Georgina Campbell Guides we have always been avid supporters of the ‘eat local’ concept, and we always enjoy reading menus that have a real sense of place. The dining experience is greatly enriched by knowing that the food on your plate is inspired by the produce and traditions of the area, and sourced nearby – and we would love to see more chefs sharing that precious information with their guests.
If you are a visitor to the area, learning a little about local food and the people who produce it adds a special extra dimension to the visit – and, for residents, it reinforces a natural pride in the good things of their locality and makes a meal all the more enjoyable.
So, we are delighted by the high standard of menus that continue to be submitted for our ' “
Just Ask!” Restaurant of the Month Competition', menus that really speak of the best of Irish foods – and the dedication of both the people who make them, and the chefs who select them to create wonderful dishes with real Irish flavour for our enjoyment.
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