Cookery Feature - Out with the Old - Store Cupboard Recipes to Relish

There’s something very cathartic about the post-Christmas/New Year period. Once the decorations have been cleared away and the house cleaned up, it’s time to go through the food – check all those bits and pieces in the fridge and freezer, clear out the cupboards and think of new ways to use everything up. There’s always plenty more to do, but my storage is all a lot less cluttered now and – like the seasonal changeover in the wardrobe – it not only makes you feel better but also reminds you of the useful things that you don’t use enough. It’s satisfying to know that nothing’s going to waste and to happen on tasty new combinations of ingredients outside the familiar repertoire. Some will be one-offs while others may become new favourites and dried basics like grains and pulses, in particular, can keep things ticking over nicely for a long time if you can’t get to the shops, as in a prolonged cold spell. The recipes below are favourites based on simple foods we all have to hand – pearl barley, oats, pasta – all are cheap, nutritious and easy to cook, and there are so many more like them.
If you’re looking for ideas, keep an eye open for a useful cookbook that’s coming out soon. The latest in the Blasta Books (https://blastabooks.com/) series, Larder, is by Orla McAndrew, a busy working mum of three who understands better than most that time is a precious commodity. Her secret weapon is not convenience foods or the local takeaway but a well-stocked larder and, as well as giving loads of tips on zero waste organisation, she shares 100 quick and easy recipes.

Smoked Salmon Tagliatelle with Parmesan Cream
This is a brilliant dish at any time - so quick and easy, and very versatile. It was perfect for using up the smoked salmon trimmings at Christmas (we were lucky enough to receive a gift of a lovely big side of Sheen Falls salmon from Kenmare, which was great for sharing) but other smoked fish could be used as well. The pasta can be varied too of course (penne is very handy), also the cream (crème fraiche or sour cream maybe), the cheese (try grating any other hard cheese that you have to hand) and the herb (even fresh parsley will do). It’s one of the stylishly straightforward dishes in my book From Tide To Table, Everything You Ever Wanted To Know About Fish & Seafood (https://www.ireland-guide.com/shop) and is go-to favourite for busy days. There may be a general rule that you should never add Parmesan to a fish-based pasta dish, but this super-quick recipe is an exception to the rule.

Serves 4-6

Ingredients
350g/12oz tagliatelle
225g/8oz sliced smoked salmon
4 tbsp torn fresh basil plus extra to garnish
300ml/1/2 pint double cream
6 tbsp freshly grated Parmesan
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method
Cook the tagliatelle in a big pan of boiling salted water - the bigger the pan the less chance of sticking - giving it a stir occasionally. This can take between 8-13 minutes from boiling - check with the packet instructions, they all vary.
Cut the smoked salmon into strips and mix with the basil. Pour the cream into a pan and bring to the boil, then boil for 1 minute until thickening; stir in 4 tablespoons of the Parmesan and season with pepper.
Drain the pasta and toss with the Parmesan cream, finally fold in the smoked salmon and basil mixture until nicely combined. Divide among warmed wide rimmed bowls and garnish with the basil to serve.

Pearl Barley Risotto with Bacon and Cabbage
A handy dish from Neven Maguire’s Midweek Meals this ‘risotto; uses pearl barley instead of rice and has an interesting nutty texture. It’s much cheaper than traditional risotto rice and is not only produced in Ireland (always a plus) but has the bonus of being extremely good for you too. It’s great for using up leftovers from a ham or bacon join, but you could also use a couple of packets of ham chunks. Although it takes about an hour to cook, it’s quick and easy to prepare and the vegetables (which can be varied) are gorgeous.

Serves 4–6

Ingredients
1 tbsp rapeseed oil
15g (½oz) butter
1 onion, diced
4 large carrots, diced
2 leeks, trimmed and sliced
2 celery sticks, diced
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
1 tsp dried thyme
400g (14oz) pearl barley
1.5 litres (2½ pints) hot chicken stock (from a cube is fine)
1 heaped tbsp Dijon mustard, plus extra to serve
1 Savoy cabbage, cored and shredded
200g (7oz) cooked lean bacon joint or ham, chopped into small pieces
sea salt and freshly ground black pepper

Method

Heat a large pan over a medium heat. Add the oil and butter, then add the onion, carrots, leeks and celery and sauté for 6–8 minutes, until softened. Stir in the garlic and thyme and cook for another 2–3 minutes, until fragrant.
Stir in the pearl barely and cook for 1 minute, until well combined. Pour in the hot stock, add the mustard and season to taste with a little salt and plenty of pepper. Bring to a simmer, then reduce the heat to low and cook for 35 minutes, stirring occasionally.
Add the cabbage and the bacon or ham and cook for another 5 minutes, until the cabbage is wilted and tender and the bacon is nicely warmed through.
Divide between plates and serve with a dollop of mustard on the side if liked.

Dried Fruit, Oat & Hazelnut Crumble
Checking on dried fruit and nuts in store cupboards regularly can be easy to forget but it’s important to keep them in rotation and avoid waste – and this is an ideal time of year to use them up in hot puddings. Dried fruit and nuts are complementary ingredients that make a naturally nutritious partnership with oatmeal. All are favourites in my kitchen and especially the oats, which are in daily use for overnight porridge – the day hasn’t started around here until we’ve had our bowl of Flahavan’s And this hot pudding is another favourite - it’s as delicious as it is wholesome, and versatile too. The recipe goes back to the 1990s, when the Health Promotion Unit at the Department of Health and Children asked members of the Irish Food Writers’ Guild to contribute a recipe to their Healthy Food magazine, which was a great combination of healthy eating and exercise guidelines, news and favourite dishes. Time to bring it back, perhaps. Serves 4-6

Ingredients
9oz/250g mixed dried fruit salad, if available, or other dried fruit, eg apricots, figs, prunes, apples etc
2oz/50g honey or sugar, or to taste
Natural apple juice or water, as required
1 inch/5cm piece cinnamon stick
Grated rind and juice of 1 small lemon
Crumble Topping:
7oz/200g oatflakes
Pinch of salt
3oz/75g butter, melted
3oz/75g Demerara sugar
1 level tsp. mixed spice (optional)
2oz/50g hazelnuts
A few tbsp. water

Method

The day before cooking, put the fruit into a pan with the cinnamon stick, sugar and enough apple juice or water to cover. Bring to the boil, then remove from the heat, add the finely grated lemon rind and the juice, cover and leave to soak overnight. (If you don’t have time for overnight soaking, use this microwave short-cut: in a Pyrex jug bring all to the to boil on High, then reduce to Low and microwave for 15-20 minutes or until fruit is plump and juicy).
Preheat a fairly hot oven 200°C/400°F/Gas Mark 6.
Butter a shallow baking dish.
To make the topping, put all except the last two ingredients into a mixing bowl and mix well. Mix a little water into the crumble mixture, so that it clings together slightly, then mix in the roughly chopped nuts.
Remove the cinnamon stick from the fruit, check prunes, etc., for stones, then arrange dried fruit on the base of the dish, with the juices.
Large pieces, e.g. half pears or peaches, may be cut to bite size if you like.
Scatter the topping over the fruit and bake in the pre-heated oven for 30-40 minutes, or until well-browned and crunchy on top.
Serve hot with chilled natural yogurt, whipped cream or ice cream.
NOTE: A mixture of oatmeal and wholemeal flour (or all wholemeal flour) may also be used. If using pre-soaked ‘ready to eat' dried fruit, less water is absorbed, judge liquids by appearance - the fruit base should be nice and juicy.