Cookery Feature - A Taste of Malaysia

Well known for his regular appearances on Virgin Media One’s Six O’Clock Show, where he demonstrates easy Asian-style dishes, the engaging Malaysian-born Euro-Toques restaurateur, chef and cookery teacher Shamzuri (‘Sham’) Hanifa has earned many fans (and accolades) for the terrific businesses that he owns/co-owns - The Cottage Restaurant in Jamestown, and two newer enterprises, Buffalo Boy and My Kitchen by Sham Hanifa, in Carrick-on-Shannon, and his authentic Chef Sham Sauces range - each a reminder of the hospitality credentials of this important riverside destination. Originally from Malaysia, he moved to Co Leitrim in 2000 and has since become a driving force in the region’s food and hospitality sector, bringing new energy and diverse flavours to a part of Ireland that can sometimes be overlooked – and, as we said in our annual awards last autumn, he is a true ‘Taste of the Waterways’ hero.
Agak-Agak - a term heard across Malaysia, meaning ‘to estimate’ - is where cooking is about instinct rather than measurements and in this book Sham translates those instincts into dishes that show his own personal representation of the Malaysian flavours he grew up with. As in all the Blasta Books range, the recipe collection is all about the back story – and, growing up in Taiping, surrounded by Chinese and Thai food influences from his maternal side and Indian and Malay influences from his paternal side, this is Sham’s fascinating mash-up of Malaysian flavours that introduce readers to favourite family dishes, as well as dishes offered in his much-loved restaurants.
With 30 easy-to-follow recipes for traditional street foods [Malaysian Stuffed Tofu], slow-cooked curries [Lamb Rendang], speedy stir-fries [Thai-style Chilli Beef], savoury soups [Crab Laksa], and plenty of ideas for leftovers [Indonesian Fried Rice] or celebrations [Chicken Sambal], Sham shares the taste and aromas of his childhood, and the family who inspired him. With fun diagrams, helpful suggestions on batch cooking, clever cooking tips to get the most out of your ingredients and the three ingredients key to Malaysian cooking, Agak-Agak is a big flavour punch in a little book.

Blasta Books #11: AGAK-AGAK Publication: July 2024. Hardback, 70pp, RRP €15/£13
SAMPLE RECIPES from Blasta Books #11: Agak-Agak by Sham Hanifa is published by Blasta Books (€15)

Gaeng prik khiao waan (Thai green curry)
I always say that whatever I put into a dish, I want to get it back – I want to taste all the ingredients, so everything should be there for a reason. For me, this is the perfect way to eat aubergine, green beans and tofu. You can use any veg you like but cook hard veg like carrots or squash longer than soft veg like broccoli, green beans and aubergine. It’s comforting to eat when you’ve had enough meat for the week. [I will be trying this recipe with the organic West Cork Otofu that I picked up in Bandon’s wonderful URRU culinary store last week…GC]
Serves 4

FOR THE GREEN SPICE PASTE:
4 garlic cloves, chopped
3 shallots, chopped
3 fresh green chillies, chopped
2 lemongrass stalks, chopped
a thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and chopped
a thumb-sized piece of galangal, peeled and chopped
a large handful of fresh coriander (leaves and stems)
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp fine sea salt
FOR THE CURRY:
1 block of tofu, cubed
2 tbsp vegetable oil, plus extra for deep-frying
1 shallot, chopped
1 tsp grated garlic
2–3 lime leaves, torn
juice of 1 lime
1 tbsp caster sugar
1 tbsp fish sauce
1 tsp fine sea salt
1 x 400ml tin of full-fat coconut milk
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 carrot, chopped
½ small squash, chopped
a handful of broccoli florets
a handful of green beans, chopped
½ aubergine, chopped
TO FINISH:
1 lime leaf, shredded
juice of ½ lime
1 tsp caster sugar
1 tsp fish sauce
TO SERVE:
boiled jasmine rice

To make the spice paste, blend all the ingredients until smooth in a high-speed blender or crush them together in a pestle and mortar. You need only 4 tablespoons for this curry, so save the rest for another dish.
Deep-fry the tofu until it’s golden brown all over. Drain on kitchen paper and set aside.
Heat 1 tablespoon of the oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic and lime leaves and cook for 2 minutes, until fragrant. Add 4 tablespoons of the green spice paste and the other tablespoon of oil and cook for 2 minutes, stirring constantly.
Add the lime juice, sugar, fish sauce and salt and cook for 30 seconds, then stir in the coconut milk and soy sauce. Turn the heat up to high and add the carrot and squash (or any hard veg you’re using). Bring to a boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer for 8–10 minutes, stirring occasionally, until reduced slightly.
Add the broccoli, green beans and aubergine (or any soft veg you’re using). Simmer for 5 minutes, then add the tofu to heat it through. Keep cooking until the sauce is nice and thick – it should be coating the veg, which should all still be holding their shape. When my mother cooks this dish she will reduce the sauce a little bit more than usual to allow all the flavour from the green curry to bind nicely with the vegetables.
Finish with the shredded lime leaf, lime juice and a final teaspoon each of sugar and fish sauce. I serve this with jasmine rice because it has more starch and is a little stickier than other kinds of rice, so it works beautifully to soak up the curry sauce.

Phad gra pow (Thai basil beef)
When I was growing up, my Thai grandparents lived with us until I was 13 years old. My grandmother was a cook at the Buddhist temple, where she cooked for the monks and visitors. She made this dish with pork but my mother uses the best bit of beef she can get instead. It always brings back memories of my childhood for me. Serves 4

FOR THE MARINADE:
2 tbsp soy sauce
1 tsp grated garlic
1 tsp light brown sugar
1 tsp ground black pepper
500g beef fillet, sliced very thinly
TO COOK:
2 tbsp vegetable oil
2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
a thumb-sized piece of ginger, peeled and thinly sliced
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 fresh red chilli, thinly sliced at an angle
1 tsp ground black pepper
2 tbsp oyster sauce
1 tbsp soy sauce
2 tbsp water
1 tsp light brown sugar
1 tsp slaked cornflour (i.e. cornflour mixed with a little liquid)
a handful of fresh Thai basil leaves
TO SERVE: boiled basmati rice

Mix together the soy sauce, garlic, sugar and pepper. Put the beef in a shallow bowl or baking dish and pour over the marinade. Set aside for just 15 minutes while you prepare the rest of the ingredients.
Put a dry wok or a large frying pan on a high heat and let it get really hot – don’t add any oil. Add the beef and stir-fry for 1 minute, then push it to the sides of the wok or pan to keep the middle clear.
Add the oil, garlic and ginger and stir-fry for 30 seconds. Add the shallot, chilli and black pepper, then mix the beef back in. Stir-fry for another 30 seconds, then add the oyster sauce and soy sauce. Cook for 1–2 minutes, then pour in the water to dilute the saltiness. Let it bubble up and reduce, then stir in the sugar, cornflour and most of the basil. Cook until the sauce thickens and coats the beef.
Serve with boiled basmati rice and garnish with the remaining whole basil leaves.

Mussels with coconut, lemongrass, lime and ginger
Living in Ireland for the past 23 years, I’ve had the chance to travel all over the country with Euro-Toques to see and taste the best of Irish produce, including a boat trip in the Killary fjord to taste beautiful Irish mussels. With my Asian background, I love to create East-meets-West dishes like this one. Originally this masak lemak recipe uses clams, cockles or periwinkles but I decided to use mussels. It’s simple and quick to prepare if you already have the spice paste in the fridge or freezer. Just fry the paste to bring up the aroma, then add the coconut milk and mussels and it’s ready in no time. Serves 4

FOR THE SPICE PASTE:
3 garlic cloves, chopped
2 lemongrass stalks, bottom halves only, thinly sliced (save the tops)
2 bird’s eye chillies, chopped
2 thumb-sized pieces of ginger, roughly chopped
juice of 1 lime
1 tbsp fish sauce
1 tbsp water
1 tbsp ground turmeric
1 tsp ground coriander

FOR THE MUSSELS:
1kg mussels
1 tbsp vegetable oil
1 shallot, halved lengthways and thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
1 bird’s eye chilli, halved lengthways
1 tbsp spice paste
50ml water
1 x 400ml tin of full-fat coconut milk
juice of ½ lime
1 lime leaf
1 tbsp fish sauce, plus extra to taste
1 tsp light brown sugar

To make the spice paste, blend all the ingredients until smooth in a high-speed blender or crush them together in a pestle and mortar. You need only 1 tablespoon of the paste for this dish, so save the rest for another time.

Rinse the mussels under cold running water and debeard them. If any are open, give them a gentle tap on the countertop. If they close, they’re safe to eat. If they stay open, throw them away.

Heat the oil in a large saucepan on a medium heat. Add the shallot, garlic, chilli, lemongrass tops and 1 tablespoon of the spice paste. Cook for 1 minute, then add the water and cook for 30 seconds before stirring in the coconut milk. Bring up to a simmer, then add the lime juice, lime leaf, fish sauce and brown sugar.

Add the mussels, cover the pan and give it a quick shake. Cook for 3 minutes, until all the mussels have opened. Discard any that are still closed. Taste the sauce and adjust the seasoning with more fish sauce if needed.

To serve, divide among four wide, deep bowls.

Blasta Books 11: Agak-Agak by Sham Hanifa is published by Blasta Books (€15)