Book Reviews - The Yellow Door, Our Story, Our Recipes by Simon Dougan

The Yellow Door, Our Story, Our Recipes, by Simon Dougan
Blackstaff Press £20

Simon Dougan is one of the luminaries of Irish food, and undoubtedly one of the great influences for good in the development of Northern Ireland’s (and indeed the island’s) food culture.

Television has introduced him to the wider public in recent years, but it is his simple, uncompromising philosophy of food – shared with his equally respected wife, Jilly Dougan, of Moyallen Foods – that has earned him, and his Yellow Door businesses in Portadown and Belfast, huge loyalty from an appreciative clientèle.

This is Simon’s first book, and it is very interesting – much more than just a recipe book, it’s a true reflection of his philosophy and common sense, beginning as it means to go on with the ‘Using this Book’ page steering the reader firmly towards free range, organic if possible, local, seasonal products, also whole milk and unrefined sugar.

If you like the kind of food that Simon likes - ‘good honest high quality food’, ‘not stuffy, not overly lavish, just gutsy flavoursome honest food’ – you’ll love this book.

The range of recipes is wide and well-chosen, taking in a good selection of modern international classics (pea & mint risotto, sesame-seared Irish scallops with Thai dressing), the great breads that are so important at The Yellow Door, and a good core of traditional or traditionally-inspired dishes (Cashel Blue tart, Paul’s game terrine, roast chicken, shepherd’s pie with root vegetable mash).

There’s a great section on parties (who better than a chef and caterer to advise on cooking for large numbers?) but most interesting to me, by far, are the recipes celebrating local produce, notably the soused Lough Neagh pollen (a fish like a freshwater herring, plentiful in Lough Neagh), and Lough Neagh eels (see recipe below); the area is renowned for fruit too - I’d have loved more on Armagh apples, but you’ll also find a celebration of Armagh strawberries and (a nice surprise) several drinks recipes using sloes.

And best of all perhaps, from the practical angle, Simon shares his favourite suppliers, delis and speciality food shops with the reader - good for you, and good for them. Brilliant.

Smoked Eel and Pancetta Salad

Eel fishing has been traditional to Lough Neagh for many generations and it continues, although on a smaller scale than formerly. Having been banned in the Republic, at least temporarily, it is now a controversial issue, making this rare product even more special (Joe Barry’s article in the Irish Independent/Rural Living, 2/3/10, may be of interest).

But alternatives can be used for this dish, in which the punchy dressing is a good foil for the smoked eel. In his introduction to this recipe, Simon Dougan concedes, “... obtaining eels may be a little problematic. If you can find it, smoked eel is well worth the trouble, or freshly smoked mackerel or herrings make a very good alternative.”

Click for recipe