There is much to love about this ambitious refit of a landmark Dublin pub dating back to 1837 that has been revived after 20 empty years. The Press Up Entertainment group – run by Paddy McKillen Jnr and Matthew Ryan – have done a characteristically stylish refurb of what is a handsome protected building, transforming it into a multi-floor warren that marries a classic Dublin pub experience with contemporary lounges for cocktails and bites, from small to substantial.
The street-level space gleams with the polished wood of a Victorian-style pub, complete with secluded snug and antique back bar. Large south-west facing sash windows welcome in the late afternoon sun to light up the copper-topped bar, under which phone-charging sockets belie some serious attention to detail. While craft beer fans may find the choice limited, fans of Guinness and toasties are well served.
Head up the handsome original staircase (past some super stylish bathrooms) and you’ll find yourself in more contemporary surroundings, with a choice of three lounges, two boasting their own cocktail bars. With some of Dublin’s best cocktail venues within its extensive portfolio (think Vintage Cocktail Club, The Liquor Rooms and Peruke & Periwig), Press-Up do cocktails very well indeed and The Lucky Duck is no exception. Flavours tend towards the fresh, bold and highly boozy, with plenty of original twists, while a couple of interesting non-alcoholic cocktails (like the Green Gable, a blend of pineapple sherbet, green tea, citrus and egg white) add a forward-thinking touch.
Food is a contributing factor to the overall experience rather than the main draw here, although dishes conceived by head chef Stephen Ryan in a retro-bistro-meets-Italiano style are generally well executed: think steamed mussels with pancetta, peas and orzo pasta, perhaps, followed by grilled pork chop with Italian sausage and butter bean casserole, with rib-sticking sides like cauliflower & cheese. Some of those starters and sides (chicken liver pâté on toasted brioche, or Parmesan fries) reappear on the ‘small plates’ menu alongside the likes of antipasti or arancini.
Wine options are concise but well-priced and include a decent by-the-glass choice and a couple of interesting left field options, though the value lies in Paddy McKillen Snr’s own Chateau la Coste from Provence, some of which is available on tap, hence reducing costs.
The sum of all these parts is an attractive gastro-destination that is helping to enliven what was a rather desolate stretch of Aungier Street, and an equally buzzy setting for a casual date or for a celebratory get-together in one of the bookable rooms upstairs (though the armchair dining mightn’t be for every generation of diner). It makes an impressive addition to Press-Up’s ever-expanding portfolio.
