The much awaited rejuvenation of The Clontarf Baths and Assembly Rooms (established 1886, but closed since 1996) saw the arrival of a bright, modern restaurant and bar overlooking the newly revamped outdoor seawater swimming pool.
The large dining space is impressive, with huge windows, high ceilings and smart nautical theming. Bath tub seats, beach hut details, knotted ropes, deck chair stripes and bubble lights bring fresh, jaunty styling to the long-derelict building. Outside seating (for coffees and drinks, not meals) is at picnic benches and there’s a conservatory style area too.
The menu has a strong seafood focus, with favourites like fish and chips, gambas, chowder and a seafood platter. Free-range rotisserie chicken (sold as a half or whole) and good wood-fired pizza are signature offerings too and there’s a crowd-pleasing dessert menu, with the likes of knickerbockerglory and chocolate tart.
While the occasional ingredient is name-checked (La Tartine sourdough, Fivemiletown goats’ cheese, Ireland's Eye crab) it’s a shame there isn’t more provenance on the menu, especially around the seafood. (Located so close to Howth it would be lovely to see a menu based on the local catch.)
Popular for brunch the weekend menu includes a full-Irish, lobster roll and Eggs Benedict. Guests can pop in for drinks only, and there’s a strong cocktail list alongside a largely mainstream selection of beers and wine, accompanied by helpful tasting notes. Service, while brisk and friendly, may be over-stretched at peak times.
Family friendly, wheelchair accessible and ideal for group get-togethers, The Baths serves decent food with lovely views, and is a welcome addition to Clontarf.
