Atmospheric is one of the things they do best in the Foley family and this younger sister restaurant to Nick’s (see entry), run by Clíodhna Foley, proves the point.
Located in a former Church of Ireland premises just up the hill a little behind Nick’s, it’s an impressive place with a long bar (a handy spot to watch activity in the kitchen), several seating areas and loads of character - the name means ‘sun and shade’ and one inspiration for the choice was the way the light from the stained glass windows plays on the interior.
The menu leads off helpfully with a definition of ‘tapa’ and explains that what’s on offer here is actually ‘raciones’ which are larger tapas portions, served on or with bread, and perfect for sharing with friends - a good decision that suits Irish tastes and is proving very popular.
The food varies with the seasons and is proudly based mainly on local Irish produce (Annascaul Black Pudding, Olivier 'On The Wild Side'Beaujouan, Wilma's Killorglin Farmhouse Cheese, Beaufort Free Range Eggs, Cahillanes Farmers & Butchers, Spillane's Seafoods and The Real Olive Company are all credited), with speciality foods imported from Spain for authenticity.
An extensive range of little dishes is offered, with calamari a la plancha, roquetas de jamon Serrano, piquillo peppers and Spanish black pudding among the specialities, while desserts include the must-try Crema Catalana Especial – Crema Catalana Foam served with Honeycomb Ice-cream & Baileys Toffee Sauce...
The Foleys have been importing wine for many years and their carefully selected, mainly Spanish, wine list is a cracker. Arranged by style, it includes a lot of specially imported bottles and you’ll also find a good choice of wines by the glass, including four sherries (all offered in two measures,150ml/1/5 bottle or 187ml/1/4 bottle, and poured from standard 750ml bottles) and sangria in summer. Craft beers and ciders are also offered (Crafty Divils and Torc Brewing are the local stars), along with well chosen spirits lists and cocktails
Live music is also an important feature here - check the website for details.
