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Georgina Campbell
Less
Neighbourhood is everything these days and every neighbourhood needs a restaurant at its core. RIBA is one of those spots. This Italian restaurant - which has been in the Borza family for decades and is currently co-owned by Paolo Borza (who also has Quattro Wood Fired Pizza in Stepaside) and manager Shane Molony - has strong community support and is always packed with regulars from Stillorgan and across South Dublin, which gives it a warm and welcoming atmosphere.
The open kitchen offers a simple, seasonally focused, and well-orchestrated menu. Pasta (hand-made daily), dry-aged steaks and the freshest seafood are the cornerstones and the offering is premium but not pricey. Warm house focaccia with extra-virgin olive oil brought to your table after ordering is always a good sign. Mushroom arancini oozing with scamorza; a salad of fennel, tomato, grapes and buffalo ricotta; and cured seatrout with a cucumber and celery leaves are amongst the starters.
Among the main courses there might be a thick Andarl Farm pork chop with caponata and gremolata and a slow cooked ragú with hand rolled and cut tagliatelle, bursting with the flavour of Italy. Tiramisu is the light and airy kind, and a lemon tart is zingy for the finish. The Affogato is a great way to round off the meal if you only want something small but sweet.
Provenance is good and there is a clear effort to support local suppliers. They work with the best of Italian produce too and the quality really comes through. Riba does a great job welcoming all kinds of customers, it is not unusual to see several three or four generations of the same family sitting beside a couple having a romantic dinner out.
The great food is supported by a smart wine list, however it seems appropriate to start with a spritz when sitting on the terrace. The list covers all bases in terms of price and style, while keeping things interesting. There is a notable emphasis on sustainable and organic wines. Wines are available by the glass and by 50cl carafe and they are armed with a Coravin too, so if something special catches your eye you do not need to commit to the bottle.
RIBA has a quaint feel about it, yet at the same time it is modern and buzzing. Inside the walnut walls are adorned with pictures of Stillorgan in the 60’s adding a sense of nostalgia, but also illustrating RIBA’s place in the community. Indeed, the family proprietors have had a business on the site for some 40 years. Banquette seating and booths make for a very comfortable dining experience.
A surprisingly neat outdoor terrace seats 24 diners. It is cleverly designed to morph into an airy sunny space, or retreat into a heated and fully enclosed area, as the Irish weather requires. Either way the additional air circulation will be appreciated for some time to come. When booking you are offered a choice of the terrace or the main dining room.
