Kilkee, as a popular little beach resort, is on the up with lots of ongoing renovations to the fine old Victorian townhouses, a revamped WaterWorld aimed at young families, and plenty of interest nearby, including Loop Head Lighthouse (well worth a visit), Dolphinwatch at Carrigaholt and some of the old West Clare Railway near Kilrush. And, for a small town, there's a remarkably varied choice of quality eating places - including this fairly recent addition in the former Murphy Blacks premises, where proprietor John Hickie and chef Chris King have earned a following for the homely welcome, tasty plates, fair prices and good service at Pollock & Porter.
A refuge for grown ups (it's for over 16s, so not the place to look for a kids menu), it was originally a house and then a pub before becoming a restaurant, and the dining area is divided between the front room with a drinks counter by the entrance, and the rear parlour with a snug on the side. With painted wooden walls, an old brick feature fireplace and nautical style metal and glass lights, it's atmospheric in a nicely simple way - a relaxing place to enjoy a seriously good meal.
Top quality fish and meats ('Seafood and Fine Cuts') from local suppliers are the mainstay of menus that delight with many unexpected details. An amuse-bouche arrives as soon as you're seated, maybe a little pastry shell of savoury vegetables topped with an apple gel... A delicious bread offering - fresh wheaten with pumpkin seeds, perhaps, and a most impressive focaccia, all made in-house, complete with a beetroot dip and a wave of butter. Then a choice of five starters... say a soup, Mussels (given some scallions and samphire in a cream liquor), a spectacular Prawn Cocktail that's dressed to impress. And it will - even a tiny boat of extra sauce is included. Also something vegetarian - perhaps a local St Tola goats cheese and Asian Cauliflower - and a Blackboard Special such as smooth Chicken Liver Paté (with crisp salted Melba croutons and a cranberry gooey jelly). Care and dedication shows in little touches - an odd edible flower, maybe, or some sprigs of peppery watercress from the local seven-acre farm.
Fresh market fish options may include grilled whole sole and there's plenty more on offer including classics like perfectly cooked Grilled Plaice fillets with Shrimps & Capers in a Lemon Butter, with a little www decoration of fresh tomato sauce for colour. Chicken, Lamb Shanks and a Wagu Sirloin are other likely options, along with something meat-free but equally tasty like Wild Mushroom Risotto. All accompanied with a simple bowl of carrots, beans, broccoli, cauliflower and boiled potatoes - no surprises, but just-cooked and perfectly seasoned.
Classic puddings like a Vanilla Bean Panacotta (seasonally decorated, not sweet and with that perfect wobble of creaminess) or a robust Choux Bun filled with fresh cream, ripe strawberries, lime curd and strawberry sauce round things off nicely, along with good coffee and a soft-glazed biscuit.
Service is outstanding throughout and smart, informative young staff are a great asset, giving menu advice along with light hearted banter, checking on everyone and pausing for just the right amount of time between courses. Wines start at a very reasonable price (c.€27), which is unusual these days, and a few well known bottled beers are also offered although, surprisingly, no local craft drinks or non-alcoholic beers or ciders.
Overall, Pollock & Porter is a winner for its personal and attentive approach, seen in terrific simple cooking and honest hospitality. One to try when next visiting Clare.
