An Osteria is a traditional Italian restaurant that offers warm hospitality, good wines, short menus and simple dishes with an emphasis on regional specialities - and that's just what you'll find at this understatedly elegant restaurant across St Patrick's Bridge, in the Victorian Quarter of Cork's city centre.
Mirco Fondrini, a jovial host who makes his guests feel very much at home from the moment they walk in, is from Valtellina in Northern Italy. He came to Ireland in 2002 and (like so many others) had no plan to stay...but fate had decreed that this dedicated hospitality professional and sommelier should manage the wonderful Farmgate Café at The English Market - where he stayed for 13 years and was not only highly popular with customers, but was even commended by the late critic A.A.Gill, who was notoriously hard to please.
So, an osteria is a place where simplicity may be expected, perhaps, and - no surprise, given Farmgate Cafe as a benchmark - da Mirco is simply superb.
Although not very long, the menu is well chosen - and don't expect pizza here. What you can expect for a start is Aperitivo Da Mirco, a sharing platter consisting of tuna fishballs with aioli, pickled onions, tomatoes and basil, salami, three cheeses and “jam”, caramelised walnuts, and their own Focaccia.
Packed with delicious flavours and textures the Aperitivo is available in two sizes and makes an excellent introduction to the restaurant as most components - the salami and the three cheeses, for example - come from Mirco’s own area. Other antipasti include familiar options like Bruschetta with fresh tomatoes, basil and green olive paté (or just with extra virgin olive oil and garlic) and several variations on olives - all distinguished by the high quality of ingredients.
Piatti Principali offers a fish and a meat of the day (enthusiastically explained to customers), and number of pasta dishes - a daily lasagna,for example, and homemade tagliatelle with meat, and fish variations (the latter pehaps an unusual combination of vodka and organic smoked salmon) and vegan option made with spiralised vegetables. Good salads too, and also wholesome sides of oven baked vegetablesor potatoes with rosemary.
Finish with one of those irresistible Italian desserts - semifreddo of the day perhaps, tiramisu, or Cantucci e Vin Santo (Cantucci biscuits with sweet dessert wine) - or a splendid Lombardy cheeseboard, to enjoy with a glass of Vin Santo or Marsala...
All this and a short but interesting wine list (including some organic and biodynamic wines) and great service. What's not to love.
