Julian and Katia Wyatt bring an international sensibility to the excellent value menu at their comfortable and relaxed John Street restaurant, but the produce at the heart of Julian’s skilful cooking is (almost) pure Dingle, with just a sprinkling of impeccable sourcing from beyond the peninsula. And what a fine natural larder Dingle offers, with suppliers like Sully the Kid crab and lobster, Iasc Ui Mhathuna Teo fish, Derick O’Conner’s vegetables and Dingle Distillery all on their doorstep.
The husband-and-wife co-owners met in France (Julian is English-born to a Cork family and Katia hails from Italian-French parentage) and had been living, working and raising their son in west Kerry for a number of years before opening their smart-casual restaurant, in its original Main Street premises, in the spring of 2019. And, thanks to the sense of locality, good cooking and value offered, Land to Sea quickly earned well deserved recognition.
That value was achieved in part by a rather spare aesthetic in the dining room, which has been continued since their 2023 move to John Street – a pleasing setting, but without linen or lush furnishings – but primarily through the expertise with which Julian approaches his ‘modern Irish cuisine’. There is an impressive confidence to how this kitchen draws on classic techniques rooted in French country-style gastronomy and brings them to the Irish palate.
The early dinner and the à la carte share dishes that may include an unusual Skeaghanore duck liver and port pâté served with red onion jam, cranberry ketchup and salad. The à la carte may also have two fish starters – Dingle spider crab salad and squid with sumac and paprika, for example, of which the crab salad has become something of a must-try for first time guests.
Mains bring dishes such as aged Kerry Hereford striploin, served perhaps with horseradish cream, Dingle hake, Kerry pork fillet with a honey & mustard sauce - and a highlight must be rack of Kerry lamb, with classic accompaniments like rosemary & garlic, carrot purée and mint gel.
The Tasting Menu comes up trumps with the sorbet – apple, elderflower and Dingle vodka which follows Kerry beef bresaola, Dingle Bay Langoustine Tartare, and seared scallops.
Confidence exudes from every plate here, and ambition too, with a great handling of flavour and textural balance and some surprisingly elaborate flourishes (given the menu prices). Sweet dishes are given as much love and respect as savoury, with real charmers like an airy yet punchy Dingle honey and Dingle whiskey mousse, honeycomb and sea salt ice-cream or a burnt Baby Guinness - Bailey's crème brulée with a chocolate & Kahlua mousse.
The wine offer is largely European and designed for popular appeal in terms of style and price point (many available by the glass, 500ml carafe or bottle), but with some quality choices like a distinctly saline Albarino.
The front of house team is full of charm and enthusiasm – and if the excellently priced six-course tasting menu is available, do consider opting for it, as it offers particularly good value.
