Located above the busy harbour area in one of the most attractive old buildings in Howth village, just before the church, The House is run by proprietor Karl Dillon, formerly of the late-lamented Gruel in Dublin city - and, true to form, the menu states a strong commitment to local, organic and artisan produce.
This Dublin restaurants smart casual interior is quietly stylish with local artwork, effective lighting, and bare tables with simple settings and bentwood chairs. Arriving guests are promptly settled in and drinks offered before choosing from a fairly priced bistro-style menu that includes some unusual dishes, often including house-smoked foods.
Starters might include a fish soup, or a delicious charcuterie selection from respected producers such as James McGeough (Connemara). Mains follow in the same style of quality ingredients cooked simply, such as a char-grilled rib-eye steak or perhaps, a winter favourite of venison with a smoked black pudding croquette and spiced lentils - and, while fresh fish is an obvious choice given the location near Howth harbour, dishes include less usual combinations such as cod with crushed potato, pumpkin, cranberries and hazelnuts.
A compact, informative wine list carries through the same philosophy of quality and value for money; beginning with interesting house wines at about €25. Finish with a homemade dessert (maybe a refreshing raspberry sorbet with crunchy biscotti or comforting bread & butter pudding) and a delicious range of coffees.
As well as great ingredients and good cooking, caring service and long opening hours add to the appeal of a meal here. While there's no shortage of dining options in Howth, this consistent neighbourhood favourite is a go-to spot for locals - and it's a popular destination for groups too, so it pays to get there ahead of the crowd.
Reservations are advised - and essential at weekends.
