Offering beautiful views across Portstewart Strand - extra special at sunset, thanks to its floor to ceiling windows - this fine dining destination above Portstewart Golf Club has been operated since 2020 by the Browns Bonds Hill Collection (Browns Bonds Hill, Browns in Town, Ardtara Country House), overseen by their highly regarded Chef-Patron, Ian Orr.
The bar and lounge area is also available for diners to use and, with its splendid location and traditional ambience creating a sense of retreat from the busy town (off-season at least), it offers something different from other dining options in the area. An attractive display of drinks and colourful bottles makes a welcoming statement at the entrance to the dining room and all round it's a nice relaxing experience, somewhat reminiscent of their previous operation at the Golf Club in Letterkenny, with prompt service from pleasant, well trained staff.
The cooking style is upbeat classical, and menus that are carefully devised to appeal at different times include a (seasonally available)Thursday Foodie Menu with wine pairings and a popular Sunday set menu that runs throughout the afternoon and early evening.
Dinner menus offer a choice of six to eight dishes per course, with thoughtful suggestions for accompanying wines by the glass for each dish which is a welcome inclusion - although, surprisingly, as Ian Orr is known for his support of local suppliers, there is no mention of provenance beyond the likes of ' Greencastle Fish of the Day'. But there's no doubting the quality in, for example, a tasty starter of Pan-seared pork belly with pickled mustard seed, apple & celerica remoulade and sweet potato, or a generous and well-dressed Blue cheese salad with baby beets, butternut squash and candied walnuts.
Main courses - also good sized portions - might include perfectly pink, rested and tender Duck breast, with braised chicory and granola, perhaps, and really good fish dishes - typically Monkfish Saltimbocca with leek and crab & pink peppercorn sauce, and Catch of the day (Hake, for example) with a nice warm tartare sauce, samphire and hazelnut & seaweed butter. Chunky chips are lovely and other sides might include carrots, leeks and parsnips, depending on the season.
Wines range from about £33, for an Australian Shiraz for example, and there's a full bar. Appealing desserts lean towards the classical - Lemon posset with granola and raspberry, for example - and there's a Selection of local cheeses, but the generous portions may incline you more towards rounding the meal off with a liqueur coffee, or perhaps a herbal tea.
All in all, with its sea views, swift service, good food and special ambience, Eighteen Ninety Four offers something different and is a pleasant place to be.
