The first of the continental style café-bars to open in Dublin in 1993, Café en Seine - which occupies two buildings on one of the city's principle Georgian streets - was also its first superpub.
Yet, in spite of its size, this distinctly over-the-top destination has plenty of personality to match, mainly thanks to its famously opulent art deco style that is reminiscent of turn-of-the-century Paris - and, to some extent, survived a multi-million euro revamp by new owners, the Mercantile Group, in 2018.
An enclosed 'street garden' with a retractable roof is the central feature, seen enticingly from the main street entrance on Dawson Street and going right through to open into Ann's Lane at the back. Featuring several tall trees, red brick 'shop fronts' and pop up art installations, it's a popular spot for lunch and makes the whole interior feel bright and open during the day. Even upstairs the street garden lifts the ambience, as the two of the five bar areas - the first and second floor Balcony Bar and Loft Bar - look down over it.
But it's not just for the ambience that people flock to Café en Seine. First and foremost it is a pub, so it's all about meeting for a drink, especially cocktails - and the range devised by bar manager and mixology specialist Peter O'Connor includes everything from classic made-to-order cocktails, to partially pre-blended drinks to a house cocktail available on draught - all based on premium spirits.The system ensures consistency, even if you're moving around from bar to bar - and the same idea is applied to the food, which is delivered consistently and efficiently by the hghly regarded Executive Chef Stephen Gibson (also Executive Chef and co-owner of Pichet) and his team.
The menu leans towards small plates and sharing dishes and the secret of their success is that, although varied (and cosmopolitan) it isn't overlong - and the same menu is offered throughout all areas, which keeps the whole system very manageable. Well trained staff, working under front of house manager Bobby Lawn, have a sense of fun and good menu knowledge and - as followers of Stephen Gibson would expect - local Irish producers and suppliers (including John Stone beef) feature in flavour-packed dishes such as Irish rib of beef cooked over wood, Moroccan style lamb shoulder, and fish roasted on the bone.
As was always the case, your mobile phone could be your most useful accessory if you arrange to meet somebody here - but, overall, this huge venue feels welcoming and fun, and it succeeds in matching volume with quality.
Well worth a visit.
