The attractive traditional frontage of the former Bramley's store has been a landmark on Abbeyleix's picturesque tree-lined main street for many years - and now well known chef Sam Moody and his wife Emily have opened their first restaurant here, in the much-loved old shop.
Beautifully refurbished in sage green and white, with polished floor boards and plenty of natural light from the large windows, it is a bright, cheerful high-ceilinged room with a semi open kitchen and a gently classy feeling - a lovely setting for enjoying some seriously good cooking.
Formerly Executive Chef at nearby Ballyfin Demesne, Sam Moody brought a big fine dining reputation with him to Abbeyleix, yet Bramley has the feel of a real local restaurant. On the Guide's initial visit, for example, it was full of happy local diners who were table hopping to greet and chat with their friends - not something that is likely to happen in many of the recently opened high end restaurants.
There is no bar area but, with the wonderful Morrissey's pub just across the road for pre- and after-dinner dinks, that is no hardship. The welcome is warm and guests are shown straight to the table where tap water and menus are offered immediately, along with excellent freshly baked brown bread and house-made whipped butter. The seasonal, refreshingly short menus showcase the best produce of Laois and other Irish suppliers so, for example, Goatsbridge Trout, Butlers Farm Chicken, Woodland Park Pork, Kilmore Quay Cod and Laois Lamb (from Mountrath) might typically be named checked.
The cooking has great finesse, as would be expected, but this is not show-off food. The focus is on enjoyment and some of the details or smaller dishes - an exceptionally delicious Amuse of Garden Pea Soup served in a demi-tasse, for example - may be most memorable. Other highlights might include Laois Lamb (from Mountrath) aromatic spices, carrots, mint and wild garlic (the addition of a crisp onion bhaji is inspired) and outstanding desserts, such as a gorgeous Hot Choclate Soufflé with white chocolate ice cream...
The short but well-chosen wine list is a work in progress and service, under Emily's direction, is lovely. Staff have plenty of personality as well as good wine and menu knowledge, and everyone feels well looked after. Chef Moody also serves some of the plates himself and introduces himself to his customers, which is nice to see. The online booking system may be a hassle, but no doubt that will be sorted out - and, together with customer-friendly hours and menus, there's a sense that this is not just another fine dining restaurant, but a place that will become part of the community.
The Heritage Town of Abbeyleix is a popular destination for many reasons - including wonderful gardens to visit, the Collin's Bog Looped Walk, Heritage House museum, and one of the country's finest old pubs, Morrisseys - and now Sam and Emily are providing another, at Bramley.
