Just off a winding country road in the midst of farmland, Billy Andys is set in a traditional two storey cottage and it is one of Northern Ireland’s last remaining family-owned licensed spirit grocers. It was founded in the early 19th century by William Andrew McWilliams and his sister, Sarah Agnes, and this atmospheric spot has remained a family business ever since - the current owners, Richard and Anna McWilliams, took over in 1997 and introduced the restaurant a decade or so later.
It feels like arriving at a country cousin’s farm: the simple whitewashed house just says “welcome, come on in, there is no fuss here!” and the authentic cottage setting - low ceilings, half-panelling and framed pictures, photographs and old posters decorating the white walls - create a cosy ambience that would be cheering at any time of year. There’s a nice buzz about the place too, especially in the charming old bar, and it all creates an expectation of traditional food - so be prepared for a surprise, as the menu at Billy Andys is not the anticipated classic pub fare at all, but an innovative, locally-focused and very seasonal offering with a much more contemporary tone.
The choice of starters, for example, is wide-ranging - scallops with pork belly, a goat’s cheese brûlée, lemon sole & black pudding terrine are all typical, also a sharing platter combining half a dozen items - while main courses offer an impressive selection of meats and seafood dishes, along with at least one imaginative vegetarian choice (Beetroot, apple and goat’s cheese turnover, perhaps). There could be a platter of Rare breed pork (including pork belly, gammon and ham hock) along with a duo of Rib-eye steak and braised short rib of beef and an unusual seafood dish, such as Crab with samphire and pickled shallot butter - and perhaps a tempting variation on ever-popular Surf'n'Turf such as Roast monkfish and sticky braised pig’s cheek.
Desserts - so often a highlight in Northern Ireland – include an option to choose miniature pairs such as Blackberry & almond bakewell and Strawberries & cream jelly with white chocolate - or a selection of cheeses for those with a more savoury palate.
The cooking is terrific - deeply flavoured and (except that the dark plates used do not show off the food to advantage), well presented - and there's plenty to accompany this delicious food from a wine list that offers a good selection of New World and Old World wines.
All this and lovely attentive and yet unobtrusive service too. A gem to try on your next trip to the Antrim coast.
