Georgina Campbell
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It's all about letting fresh local ingredients sing at the former Parlour Café in Cork's historic city centre. Opened in spring 2020 by a talented young cheffing couple, David Devereaux and Anne Zagar, 51 Cornmarket Street had hardly got going when the first lockdown came along - and that was only the start of it. But, undaunted, they were soon up and running again in any way possible, and as keen as ever.
Located in an old building, the café is a narrow nicely lit and gently funky space, with simple lightwood tables lining the walls - and a wide pavement area at the front, allowing for plenty of outdoor seating. Open for breakfast, lunch and all times in between, it's a youthful place exuding energy and enthusiasm. Menus change frequently, depending on supplies, and the great food plus friendly and warmly efficient staff explain the queues of fans that often form outside, hungry for their tasty fare.
While both are chefs, Anne keeps everything running sweetly and David is in the kitchen, where the style is modern Irish with a clean, light touch - and a strong focus on local produce. O’Mahony Butchers, Ballycotton Sea Food, Pana Bread, Kilbrack Farm, Annabella Farm, McCarthy’s of Kanturk and O’Brien’s Free Range Eggs all feature, but the stars are even more local, coming from the nearby rooftop farm in their own street - don't miss the massive Farm Salad (tomato, local feta, potato, mint, cucumber and leaves) if it's on offer.
Their own special version of the Irish breakfast and excellent classic egg dishes attract a loyal breakfast ands brunch following. Caramelised Onion Tart is a favourite and some regulars come especially for the French Toast, with poached apricot, yoghurt & Jack's West Cork Honey, or - at weekends - Steak and Eggs, perhaps.
Eggs feature again on a short lunch menu that's full of promise and also offers hearty flavour-packed treats like Brisket with pickled onion and celeriac remoulade or Pork belly with apple and red cabbage...
Everything is done in-house, including curing their own fish, such as the rainbow trout that features in the Eggs Royale with eggs and hollandaise.
Between times, morning or afternoon, be sure and check out the baking. Anne's brown bread and scones are in a class of their own - deciding between Blueberry and lime, white chocolate and cranberry, Cinnamon, pecan and toasted oats, and the traditional sultana is hard to do, and it may well take several visits to pick your favourite...
Well worth remembering next time you're in Cork.
