Exciting developments in County Wicklow of late, with The Coach House in Roundwood re-opening in new ownership - and not just new ownership, but a seriously promising change of direction. After Simon Pratt, his wife Monique and two former Avoca associates opened The Roundwood Stores in 2021, that delightful little bakery, shop and café soon became the area’s go-to place to pick up a loaf of sourdough and some premium groceries, or have a casual bite. So there was delight a-plenty when they bought the adjacent Coach House pub two years later – and no shortage of anticipation ahead of the 200-year old pub re-opening in December 2023.
Having opened initially as a weekend bar/restaurant, refurbishment of the acommodation was soon under way as well - and it’s just across from the wonderfully complementary Roundwood Inn, creating a cluster of good things for discerning visitors to the village, who will be able to stay here and eat in both pubs without going near their cars.
And The Coach House is just as gorgeous as we had all hoped. We're inexplicably short of good pubs with accommodation in Ireland, but this one is the business - they describe it themselves as '...a picture perfect classic Irish Inn, offering restaurant quality pub food and comfortable B&B lodgings' and who could argue with that. Complete with open log fires and comfy seating areas, the large bar runs along the front of the ground floor and, behind it, another bar and seating area extends into an atmospheric and very relaxing dining room with lovely old wide floorboards, oriental rugs, mix'n'match antique furniture, fascinating artwork and eclectic lighting. And oodles of greenery, notably a central arrangement of pots set on a greenhouse table - and, whether by accident or design, a light waft of air from an air-conditioning unit keeps the leaves trembling gently, creating a beautifully vibrant yet understated living centrepiece.
And all of this for happy new arrivals to soak up before having so much as a glimpse of what turns out to be a very cleverly constructed menu - not long, but thoughtfully created to showcase their excellent suppliers (some of whom are proudly listed - a number of outstanding growers, for instance, among them the legendary Dermot Carey) and offer something to interest a wide range of tastes, including vegan dishes on request.
Chef Ciaran Kiely (Avoca aluminus) offers a number of seasonal menus - pub, restaurant (lunch and dinner), kids - each kicking off with their glorious 48-hour sourdough (also available in the shop next door if you are quick enough), served with deep yellow butter and a more-ish dip such as parsnip & feta. Ah, what a way to start a very good meal where everything tastes of itself... Other highlights might include a hearty Tuscan bean soup with cavolo nero and carrots, and a most beautiful Salad of beetroot, salsa verde, citrus, green olive and Ardsallagh goats cheese - both worth travelling for in their own right and, like a number of dishes, available in two sizes in both bar and restaurant. In common with many of the deliciously vegecentric dishes offered here, the beauty and deep natural flavours of that salad will likely linger in the mind long after the (very fair) bill has been forgotten.
Mains offered in both restaurant and bar will probably include Wicklow venison in season - a pie with red cabbage for example, on all menus, and perhaps a sophisticated starter of Carpaccio of Wicklow Sika deer with Jerusalem artichokes and hazelnuts on the dinner menu - while oysters are also likely to appear as seasonal treats, priced singly or by the half dozen. The Coach House Wagyu cheeseburger, with pickle, tomato sauce and hand-cut chips is a sure-fire winner (and very reasonably priced at about €20 on all menus) and, at the other end of the scale, the dinner menu may include a magnificent sharing dish of Cote de Boeuf with Café de Paris butter, pressed potato and winter greens, also fairly priced at about €65 for two. There are appealing fish dishes too - Roaring Water Bay mussels with pancetta and sourdough looks set to become a regular feature and, perhaps, skate (not often seen these days) with blood orange, leeks and brown caper butter, considerately served with a spoon to scrape the meat off the bones.
Nothing ordinary about the dessert menu either - luscious Conference pear wih custard and almond, for example, is a simple-sounding but utterly delicious confection that it would be a mistake to miss - and the cheese offering may include lesser known stars like the unctuous Ballylisk triple cream cheese from Armagh alongside classics like Durrus, served with chutney and oat biscuits.
This being a pub there is, of course, a well-stocked full bar and an extensive and carefully selected drinks list, including craft beers and a good choice of wines by the glass. Lovely service too, from this very dedicated hands-on team, which adds so much to the experience of a visit here.
With its style, comfort, warm welcome, delicious food, accommodation and great value the 'new' Coach House is just what Wicklow has been waiting for - and a perfect complement to our other Garden County favourites nearby.
