Casual dining may be the big story at the moment but fine dining is far from dead - and, regardless of style, the restaurants that are performing best are those led by people like our Chef of the Year, who are grounded in classical cooking. And, in this case, a beautiful setting lends a special sense of occasion.
Garrett Byrne, former head chef at Dublin’s celebrated Chapter One, returned home to Kilkenny in 2008 to open this well named French-inspired restaurant with his wife and restaurant manager, Brid Hannon, and it has since been the hallmark of fine dining in the city. A sense of place is at the heart of everything here. Central to the décor, a set of colourful contemporary paintings vividly depicting rural life, by celebrated Kilkenny artist Catherine Barron, illustrates their passionately held food philosophy of involving local food producers. From the quietly superb service to the sublime rustically inspired classical cooking, understated finesse is the hallmark of Campagne; the meticulously selected seasonal ingredients are cooked to perfection and beautifully presented in dishes that may include updated Irish traditions - and the tone is invariably relaxed. It’s a place that works its magic on every diner – and, thanks to the proximity of the railway station and pricing that is very reasonable for the high standards offered, it is surprisingly accessible.