Articles

Raising a Toast to Those who Survive – and Thrive! At the 2011 Georgina Campbell Awards.

Representatives of the very best of Irish hospitality gathered at Bord Bia in Dublin today (12th October 2010), for the announcement of the 2011 Georgina Campbell Awards, associated with the respected Georgina Campbell’s Ireland independent hospitality guides, and Ireland’s most popular independent hospitality and travel website www.ireland-guide.com. Unlike most other award schemes, the Georgina Campbell Awards are completely independent, and in no way affiliated with trade associations or marketing groups; it is this independence which has earned them special respect in the industry, and public trust.
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The Winding Stair has been in the news a lot of late and, following the well-publicised problems of the previous owners, the Thomas Read group, Dubliners were delighted when the highly regarded former manager, Elaine Murphy, emerged earlier this year as the new proprietor-manager of this delightfully characterful restaurant overlooking the Liffey. This was great news for everyone who had come to love the real Irish feel of the restaurant, including the way it was expressed through simply cooked local Irish and artisan food – a real ‘good home cooking’ style that was at odds with the cheffy tall food fashions of the day when the restaurant opened in 2006, but is widely appreciated now.
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At this time of year, chefs and beef connoisseurs begin to get excited about the new autumn beef which is just coming in from local farmers. Beef may be available all year – and many consumers are unaware of it as a seasonal food, in the way that lamb is – but those in the know keenly anticipate the meaty treats which will only be available for a couple of months during the autumn. In north Dublin, for example, Howth butcher Ray Collier stocks the local Baily beef – finished each summer on a nearby farm ...
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Thinking back on it, it’s amazing how farming has changed in the last half century or so - for anyone growing up more than 50 or 60 years ago, organic farming was the norm; it didn’t need a label, it was just traditional farming. Then, after World War Two all that changed with the drive to increase yields dramatically and – crucially - to produce cheap food. Now we’re coming full cycle and seeing the damage that intensive production can bring with it, so good traditionally produced food (mainly, but not necessarily, ‘organic’) is regaining its well-deserved status.
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"People abroad no longer think Ireland possesses a naturally unspoiled environment, because the truth is out there."
“Authentic: not imaginary, false fake or imitation: genuine, OED." Ah. So that's what it means, says himself, closing the dictionary. One might be forgiven for believing that it means just the opposite; we are told that the diktat currently regimenting bed and breakfast establishments will provide visitors with an "authentic" experience of Irish life. The 40 page document, mentioned on these pages before, which insists even for its basic level of approval, that the premises conform to a rigid set of rules will have the effect of littering the country with identical, unauthentic clones.
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Although we are now a widely urbanised society, a high proportion of Irish people have country connections - yet there were worrying signs, during the boom years, of growing disconnection with our rural roots. But all that is changing as concern about the economy, and issues like food security and provenance, are all stimulating a fresh appreciation of seasonal, local produce - and inspiring thousands to grow their own food, often on allotments. Energetic, passionate and multi-talented people like Peter and Jenny Young, fourth generation custodians of a170-acre organic farm between Athy and Kilcullen, are making a valuable contribution to this changing scene with their open farm policy (tours arranged), farm shop and communications skills.
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Having full time experience running her lovely Co Wicklow farm B&B, Ballyknocken House, and the cookery school she has set up there, the delightful Catherine Fulvio is a practical cook as well as an inspiring one, so this is definitely won’t be one of those books that languishes on the bookshelf and rarely gets used.
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Just outside Cong, in the Ashford Castle Estate, Lisloughrey Lodge is a contemporary hotel with a lovely Georgian house at its heart and, with views down Lough Corrib, it enjoys one of the most beautiful locations in Ireland. Situated in two rooms on the first floor of the old house, Salt Restaurant is perfectly placed to make the most of the view - just as Head Chef Wade Murphy’s menus make the most of the superb foods that are available to him, including many from the immediate area.
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With the nation’s foodie mindset already well tuned in to sustainable living – thousands of us started allotments this year, and no allotment is complete without its bijou chicken run – the next stage is to re-learn all the practical skills that our grandparents took for granted.
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Now widely recognised as a ‘superfood’, blueberries are virtually fat and cholesterol free, low in calories, high in vitamins A and C high in dietary fibre, high in calcium, require little sweetening - and have more antioxidants than most other fruits and vegetables...
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