Despite recent development at this seaside village, Barna has retained some of its old charm around the harbour area – and its location, handy to both Connemara and Galway City, is a huge attraction. And so is this unique hotel which, although only open since 2006, very soon achieved national recognition. Named after Connemara’s Twelve Bens mountains, The Twelve has bravely brought contemporary style to an area known for its traditional appeal. It replaced a long-established hotel and the site was well-used to create a sense of ample space.
You arrive through a small but quirky reception area, or directly from the car park through a covered seating/smoking area to The Pins Bar, which is a fine, welcoming space with mixed seating including comfortable couches, an open fire, and bookshelves full of books including some for children. The earthy mix of black tables, clay brown walls and wooden flooring is relaxing, and the sense of informality is emphasised by central raised counter-style tables and tall stools set up for parties of up to ten, as well as a spread of tables at normal height.
The main food focus of the hotel is here in Pins Gastro Bar, where food is served all day. This busy local and tourist venue is popular for sports on TV and weekend live music sessions, as well as its menu. Its reputation for good pizzas and breads, baked in their own bakery, is fully justified.
There is huge focus on the best local and artisan foods - and drinks too, with food pairings suggested for a wide range of drinks, including Irish craft beers, some of which are gluten free.
Bakery sandwiches could include seared chicken on rustic ciabatta (spiced chicken, lettuce, tomato, garlic mayo) and Andarl Farm porchetta with Mom’s apple & cabbage chutney and almond stuffing.
On the locally inspired pizzas is the popular Barna Crossroads – fresh basil pesto, smoked chicken, mozzarella, sweet corn, cherry tomatoes and roasted red peppers. Unusually, there is a dessert pizza – to share – chocolate & marshmallow, perhaps, or apple & caramel.
Small Plates offer choices such as Grandma’s short rib, smoked salmon blinis or tempura shrimp spice bag, while Larger plates might include La Campofilone handmade pasta, turkey and ham Wellington or Higgin’s dry-aged smoked burger with chipotle brioche. Sweet treats are traditional temptations – bread and butter pudding with caramel sauce or maybe a chocolate brownie.
This fine, bright cosmopolitan bar offers good levels of service, an admirable focus on locally sourced food, and an emphasis on cocktails and “gourmet” beers; it is coeliac friendly and provides a childrens’ menu.
The stylish guestrooms are quirky, but not at the expense of comfort; six room types are offered, most with separate bath and shower, some with their own cocktail bar; there’s a suite to suit families or friends travelling together, pet friendly suites, a Funnymoon Suite – and, the ultimate, Suite X11, with open fireplace used as a room divider.
The dark tones continue among the bedrooms which have darkwood floors and subtle variations of lighting and fabrics to make rooms distinctive from each other. Large old-fashioned gilt-framed mirrors are a feature, especially leaning against the walls on the corridors – a design statement that was used long before it was popular and lends a homely touch.
Breakfast, like everything at The Twelve, is special in a quirky way and with a solid foundation of quality products from artisan suppliers. Guaranteeing a sunny start to your day, the menu is presented on a bright yellow paper place mat, with a cheery morning greeting in various languages around the edge.
An excellent West of Ireland rendition of the Full (or Mini) Irish is offered, along with organic porridge (offered with the superb Velvet Cloud sheep's yogurt, among other good things) and a great pastry selection from their own bakery. Other hot dishes include many of the brunch-style favourites, such as buttermilk pancakes, and a 'Vegan/Vegetarian Delight' (roast aubergine with basil and smoked tofu, balsamic syrup and sourdough). But there are also a couple of surprises - slow cooked duck would be rare enough on a breakfast menu, for example, but wild rabbit must be a one-off. Served warm on rosti with fried eggs and a drizzle of truffle oil, that's a dish worth travelling for.
The Twelve has become a respected rendezvous, an innovative destination which always has something new to offer - a more recent addition is the Pizza Dozzina artisanal shop - and the constant efforts made to surprise and delight customers, and give value, is a real credit to the management.
West Restaurant
The first floor fine dining restaurant, also predominantly black, has a variety of booths with leather banquettes seating, mood lighting from ceiling lights and fat table candles. There is a special focus on wine, with wines visible on temperature-controlled racks behind glass and a champagne bar within the room.
Reception and service have an ease and confidence, totally customer focused. Chef Nathan Hindmarsh's menus at West are a model of consumer information, listing produce 'in season this month' as well as suppliers. The motto “Clean, Honest, Irish” sums up a philosophy which can be seen at work in every aspect of the hotel, notably the à la carte menu. Its straightforward simplicity is appealing; it is reasonably priced and with no cheffy descriptions. Seafood is a strength, of course, but also imaginative vegetarian dishes, mature beef and perhaps less usual ingredients in season.
Coeliac-friendly dishes are highlighted and suppliers are listed, together with a welcome statement on seasonality. Following a similar pattern to the informal dishes offered downstairs in The Pins Bar, the menu kicks off with a section of about ten 'Small Plates', ranging from Homemade black pudding to Taste of Rossaveal crab to stuffed saddle of wild rabbit. Mains ('Large Plates') offer about seven dishes, including Thornhill dry-aged duck breast, Inagh Valley organic lamb and fish catch of the day, all very reasonably priced.
For a special occasion, by contrast, The Chef’s Table offers dinner in the kitchen for ten people – a gastronomic menu with “sensational” wines.
Desserts – blackberry panna cotta or perhaps smoked chocolate creameux - will be hard to resist and can be accompanied by a ‘Port and dessert wine flight’. If you like to round off your meal on a savoury note, go for the West Cheese Board – a well-balanced selection of four of Ireland’s finest artisan cheeses.
The West’s wine list has earned international recognition and a trademark of this special list is wine with or without skins by the glass and bottle, red and white, old and new world, with informative tasting notes.
