Peploe’s on St Stephen's Green seemed to lose its way for a while, though this popular city centre Dublin restaurants always had its loyal fans and successfully rode out the economic crash.
With a fresh refurbishment and renewed focus, the buzzy basement brasserie seems to have ironed out any inconsistencies and returned to form. A sparkling cocktail bar by the door sets the tone for dining here, and the deep, plush room buzzes with a lively mix of tourists, locals and expense accounts enjoying the upbeat hospitality.
The large room features a colourful mural along one wall, depicting a lively and glamorous get-together: in many ways it mimics the scene in the dining room, which is a convivial buzz of laughter and chatter. Despite low ceilings and a long, narrow space, the acoustics work well and conversation is never difficult.
Graeme Dodril’s cooking is solid and tasty, his menu an appetising selection of brasserie classics and crowd-pleasers. Signature dishes include chicken Milanese, cottage pie with slow cooked Irish beef and a good rendition of French onion soup. Graeme’s pan-seared veal kidneys with balsamic vinegar, wholegrain mustard sauce and toasted brioche deliver a big bowl of punchy flavour.
There’s huge variety on the menu, from lighter salads and seafood to two types of beef, roasted Castlemine Farm lamb, salt aged duck and pasta. A decent vegetarian menu, with imaginative choices (and vegan dishes) ensures that everyone in a group will be well catered for, making it a smart destination for a gathering.
A knock-out wine list has great variety – including popular Prosecco cocktails and vintage port – and and offers some affordability, though there’s plenty of heavy-hitters to flex the credit card too.
Whether you go for lunch, pre-theatre or dinner, you can expect to find a real buzz in Peploe’s seven days a week. Service is swift, switched on and efficient and the dining room is comfortable and cosy. Add in solid cooking and a warm welcome and it’s easy to see why the city’s concierges are sending their hotel’s guests here.
