In 2022 chef Dermot O'Sullivan took over the ‘small but perfectly formed’ café behind Brown Thomas that Cork food legends Richard and Mairead Jacob had run for two decades - bringing with him a clear vision for the furure of his new business, and a deeply-held food philosophy. And, beginning with a change of name that got everyone talking, he wasted no time putting his mark on this delightful spot.
With artisanal produce always at its heart, Greenwich became a member of Good Food Ireland and, more recently, also Euro-Toques Ireland - which sends a strong signal about quality, provenance and the 'shared vision of preserving our culinary heritage'.
Quipping that "the English Market is our cold room!", Dermot - who arrived here via some distinguished Cork kitchens, including Ballymaloe House - takes pride in ensuring that everything is fresh and local, and his carefully selected suppliers tell the story for him.
Dermot keeps a close eye on the direction menus are taking, with new dishes frequently added and some old favourites happily retained. Flahavan's Irish Porridge proudly kicks off the morning dishes and, with eggs being central to a whole section of the menu, East Ferry Farm Free Range Eggs play a key role, often supported by the Allshire family's delicious Rosscarbery sausages and bacon - which also pop up in a variety of dishes including one of their gorgeous Buttermilk Pancakes, which is served with organic maple syrup.
Toasties are a highly popular house speciality and Moynihans Chicken, Tom Durcan's Spiced Beef and Ballycotton Smoked Salmon each take pride of place in their respective sandwiches - and, while the all-day menus change with the seasons, they'll always feature greats like Pana Breads from Midleton, North Cork Butter and Waterfall Farm Leaves.
As befits a daytime café, baking is a speciality, offering plenty of temptations that are just right for that quick morning coffee or afternoon tea break. It's easy to see why the freshly baked Pear & Almond scones have a loyal following - as does the Lemon Curd Cake, and the longtime favourite Flourless Orange & Almond cake, which is coeliac-friendly. The range of hot and cold drinks offered is equally carefully considered, to include locally roasted SOMA coffee and biodynamic wines, and - having discontinued all Coca Cola products - the main drinks list focuses on Irish drinks including Flor Uisce, King of Kefir, All About Kombucha, and Tipperary Apple Farm juice and lemonades.
All round it's a great little place, with a fun atmosphere, very tasty food with real local flavour, happy service - and great value.
