It may seems strange to go for dinner in a department store, but Harvey Nichols has long been associated with fine food. Its Irish outpost, which opened at Dundrum Town Centre in 2005, is no different and the First Floor restaurant has its own entrance, keeping it separate from the shopping experience.
A recent tweaking of this Dublin restaurants décor has spruced things up, but by and large the contemporary dining room has all the drama of its original incarnation. With floor-to-ceiling windows, wooden slats studded with tiny lights, acid bright furnishings and graphic carpets it’s a gorgeous space that’s both bright and comfortable.
The First Floor Bar looks onto the restaurant through a glass wall; a popular spot for aperitifs and cocktails, it also serves a new tapas menu in the evenings, and from lunchtime on Fridays and Saturdays. Next door you’ll find the full fine dining experience, from formal service to well thought out menus and quality ingredients.
New head chef Philip Mahon’s first menu features a mix of rustic and classic dishes that have been given a modern treatment, such as coddle made with Morteau sausage, celeriac velouté and bacon.
Mains are cleverly spilt up into categories of Farm, Sea and Soil, although dish descriptions could be clearer and they’re sprinkled with terms – duxelle, crotin, ranch etc – that can make them seem a little inaccessible. (Likewise there are many ¬elements without descriptions: Dolce Latte, Perigord sauce, St. George, which could easily confuse diners.)
Good starters may include Gamba Prawns with parsley and garlic – a piquant Spanish dish, well executed – and a crayfish cocktail that, although filling, is refined with juicy tom berries, baby gem leaves and shellfish dressing.
The best dishes successfully show off both accomplished techniques and the beautiful ingredients favoured by the kitchen - among the main courses, an 8 oz fillet of Donald Russell beef with shallot purée, spinach, mushroom duxelle, truffle dauphinoise and perigord truffles is a good example.
Desserts need a little work bring them up to the high standards of the other dishes, but presentation is especially good throughout, with charming and attentive service also a highlight.
The wine list is impressive and offers several good value house wines as well as plenty of treats for the connoisseur.
Good value promotions, including a 2-course business lunch for €18.50 with express service and free parking, gourmet dinners and wine events ensure discerning regulars are well catered for. An exclusive Chef’s Table, available for parties from 6-10, is priced at €80 a head.
Although it still needs a little work, overall The First Floor is aiming to maintain the high standards set by the original head chef, Thomas Haughton, and it offers an enjoyable dining experience in an attractive setting.
Seats 80 (private room, 12); toilets wheelchair accessible; children welcome before 9pm (high chair, children's menu, baby changing facilities); air conditioning; L Tue-Sun, 12.30-3pm (to 3.30 pm Sat, 4pm Sun); set 2 course L with a glass of wine €20, set Sun L €27.50; D Tue-Sat, 6-10, 2/3 course value D €24.50/29.50, 6-7.30pm, set 3 course D €45, also à la carte D; house wine €22. Live jazz Sun L. Closed Sun D, all day Mon and 25/26 Dec. Amex, Diners, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
