Fans of the Doherty family's famously unlikely culinary hotspsot, Harry's Restaurant, in the 'blink and you've missed it' village of Bridgend were thrilled to find this new coastal offshoot at Portstewart in 2014. Sadly, Harry's in Bridgend has since closed, but this beach side star is busier than ever.
True to form, the bland street address gives very little away and first time visitors may be surprised to find what looks for all the world like a hairy-roofed shed right at the entrance to the beach - and, although the premises is not large, a brilliant new covered outside bar and eating area has extended the seating.
Railway sleepers hold back the sand to make rough steps from the beach up to the entrance, where dog walkers will be pleased to see welcoming water bowls as well a sturdy picnic tables.
Owned by the National Trust and formerly an office, the building underwent a major revamp before opening, with Donal Doherty and the team applying their own special brand of down to earth magic - to install a great working kitchen, for a start, but also to create a vibrant dining space with big picture windows (yes, they had to add those too) looking out over the strand and the pounding waves.
Donal pays tribute to the National Trust, acknowledging that It was a brave move to give them this iconic building. "They love our walled garden and our sourcing model. They have been amazing to us," he says.
Simplicity rules, yet there's a real sense of excitement among the hungry diners queuing at the door - as friendly staff take names while explaining peak time delays of maybe 40 minutes ('why not take a walk along the beach and come back in half an hour?'), happy punters know the wait will be worthwhile.
Working the coffee machine beside the entrance, where casual customers drop by to pick up a hot drink and a home bake, Donal finds time for a quick chat with everyone and the buzz is mighty.
And once settled at one of the upcycled tables with one of those gorgeous Harrys menus, rich with local shellfish, fish from Greencastle ('straight off yesterday's boats and here today'), local meats - and, of course, lots of dishes to show off the fresh seasonal produce beautifully grown by Noel Doherty at their walled garden at Burt - where else would you want to be?
The cooking is simply brilliant, memorable for its freshness, flavour and colour. You'd travel a long way to find food as good as this, and hardworking staff make sure you get the service to match.
This little place was a runaway success from the day it opened, and no wonder. It's a brilliant asset to the beautiful North Coast.
