Darwin’s opened on Aungier Street in 2005, where it a gained a reputation for its quality steaks and friendly service. After closing for several months in 2009, it has recently reopened down the street in a newer, bigger premises, serving the same menu.
Outside, there are a couple of tables behind an awning for smokers and, once inside, you’ll still find a darkly lit interior at the back of the restaurant but up front is a comfy little seating area by the bar right at the door and a nice bright dining room with cream wood panelling, pale wood floors, wrought iron chandeliers, several ornate mirrors and a lively atmosphere.
This Dublin restaurants an attractive space with good-sized tables, although the large portraits of primates, illuminated by orange lights, may not be to everyone’s taste.
The menu is varied, reflecting the international crew in the kitchen. Starters are interesting and varied although, in The Guide’s experience, appealing dishes like pretty deep-fried baby calamari served with a saffron lime mayonnaise on a bed of salad greens and wholesome lentil salad with beetroot & goats cheese may be a little bland and could benefit from greater care with seasoning.
Mains include seafood and poultry as well as the showpiece certified Irish Angus steaks which can be ordered in different five cuts, with a choice of side orders and sauces.
However, the highlight of a recent visit was not the beef but the Darwin's lamb plate – a char grilled half rack and roasted eye fillet marinated in garlic and rosemary, which was a truly excellent plate of food, enhanced by spicy hummus and roasted sweet potatoes; not cheap at €27, but an outstanding dish that demonstrated what this kitchen is capable of, at its best.
Desserts may also be inconsistent (brownies should not be dry) but, in our experience, the tasting platter is a good bet – certainly if you’re lucky enough to find the rhubarb fool and Eton mess on your plate.
Service is friendly, although we’d like to see more positive response if a there is a problem with a dish.
Overall the ‘new’ Darwin’s is a pleasant restaurant and the food shows flashes of excellence, but there is a sense that it has not yet settled down and the kitchen needs to focus on achieving consistently high standards.
Seats 50; air conditioning; children welcome before 7; D Mon-Sat, 5 to 11pm; early D all night Mon&Tue,Wed-Fri 5-7pm €19.95; also á la carte; also vegetarian menu. House wine €19.50. Closed Sun, 25-26 Dec & Bank Hols. Amex, MasterCard, Visa, Laser.
